Post by iluvdrt on Jul 14, 2003 12:13:46 GMT -5
this is continued from the first one. once again this is not my article it was found on another site.
Wheel Well Liners:
After I bought my 4Runner (used) I noticed the passenger's side wheel well liner was almost ready to fall off. I replaced some of the missing plastic snaps and then noticed the driver's side was missing all together. After doing my 1" body lift, it became obvious that the liners needed to be replaced, since they no longer provided useful protection. The liners can help reduce the amount of water and mud that is thrown up by the front wheels into the engine bay. They won't keep the engine totally dry, but every little bit helps.
I found a company that makes custom fit "Lift Lips" out of heavy gauge neoprene rubber for Toyota trucks. The rubber is over twice as thick and will not tear like the stock material. They are supposed to fit up to 3" body lift, so I found I needed to trim a bit of rubber around the shock towers to get mine to fit. I also found it necessary to cut a slot for the brake line to fit through.
One thing I did notice, was that the plastic snaps supplied with the kit fit the stock holes very loosely. I found that a #10x24 threaded insert will fit the stock holes (a few needed a pass of a 9/32" drill bit) nicely. I then used brass screws and washers to attach the liners. Now, the liners are very secure, yet easily removed if needed (like changing oil and fuel filters).
Lift Lips
Mountain Enterprises
P.O. Box 890311
Temecula, CA 92589
Toll Free: (888) LIFT-LIP
Direct: (714) 859-0504
Cost:
Lift Lips ................ $50
Threaded inserts (~30) ... 15
Brass screws/washers ..... 10
------------------------------
Total .................... $75
Electric Radiator Fan and Custom Controls:
I replaced the stock belt-driven fan and clutch with an electric Flex-A-Lite Black Magic Fan. The fan is designed for drop-in replacement of the stock fan. To install it, you remove the air intake tube and the top radiator hose. Remove the 4 bolts holding the fan clutch to the pulley the the stock fan shroud. The new fan brackets mount to the existing shroud mounting holes. A rubber gasket surrounds the new shroud and seals it against the radiator. An thermostat bulb also contacts the radiator and is adjustable.
After installing the fan, I noticed its control module has some auxiliary inputs to allow for some interesting features. I was inspired by my work on my VW pickup where I modified the factory electric radiator fan. With the base installation, the fan will only run when the its thermostat trips. For a reliable off-road vehicle, I felt some functional additions were in order. (Besides I'm an electrical engineer and can't resist tinkering with things electrical:-)
The module has an A/C input to turn the radiator fan on while the A/C is operating. I tapped into the hot wire of the A/C compressor clutch for this function. This way the fan is only operated while the compressor is actually running. This is handy in town when stopped, there is still fresh air flowing over the A/C evaporator coils. I did have to tweak the setting on the A/C cutoff controller behind the glove box to keep the A/C running at idle.
There is a pair of low-current +12V inputs; one that enables automatic operation (via the built-in adjustable thermostat, initially, I had just tied this input to +12V). The second input allows manual operation of the fan. I simply connected these two inputs to a dash-mounted single pole double throw (SPDT) switch which in turn was wired to a fused 12V source. In the UP position, the fan is in automatic (i.e. thermostat) mode, in the center, it is off (handy for deep water crossings) and in the DOWN position, it is in manual mode (i.e. always on). The switch it tucked up under the ash tray next to an indicator light (#3).
I somehow distrust automatic things and like to know that they are actually running. The electric fan is no exception, so I spliced a wire to the hot side of the fan motor and ran it to a 12V indicator lamp that I installed next to the switch (#2). This way, whenever the fan motor is running, the light illuminates. This is quite useful to see if the thermostat setting is high enough to keep the fan off during highway driving, and low enough for stop-n-go traffic and 4WD Lo rock crawling. Also, with the A/C input (#1) you can also see when the A/C compressor is running.
Cost:
Assuming you already have the electric fan
- (mine was $200 on sale at Perf.Prod.)
SPDT toggle switch $5
12V indicator light 2
Misc wire/connectors 3
-----------------------
Total $10
Wheel Well Liners:
After I bought my 4Runner (used) I noticed the passenger's side wheel well liner was almost ready to fall off. I replaced some of the missing plastic snaps and then noticed the driver's side was missing all together. After doing my 1" body lift, it became obvious that the liners needed to be replaced, since they no longer provided useful protection. The liners can help reduce the amount of water and mud that is thrown up by the front wheels into the engine bay. They won't keep the engine totally dry, but every little bit helps.
I found a company that makes custom fit "Lift Lips" out of heavy gauge neoprene rubber for Toyota trucks. The rubber is over twice as thick and will not tear like the stock material. They are supposed to fit up to 3" body lift, so I found I needed to trim a bit of rubber around the shock towers to get mine to fit. I also found it necessary to cut a slot for the brake line to fit through.
One thing I did notice, was that the plastic snaps supplied with the kit fit the stock holes very loosely. I found that a #10x24 threaded insert will fit the stock holes (a few needed a pass of a 9/32" drill bit) nicely. I then used brass screws and washers to attach the liners. Now, the liners are very secure, yet easily removed if needed (like changing oil and fuel filters).
Lift Lips
Mountain Enterprises
P.O. Box 890311
Temecula, CA 92589
Toll Free: (888) LIFT-LIP
Direct: (714) 859-0504
Cost:
Lift Lips ................ $50
Threaded inserts (~30) ... 15
Brass screws/washers ..... 10
------------------------------
Total .................... $75
Electric Radiator Fan and Custom Controls:
I replaced the stock belt-driven fan and clutch with an electric Flex-A-Lite Black Magic Fan. The fan is designed for drop-in replacement of the stock fan. To install it, you remove the air intake tube and the top radiator hose. Remove the 4 bolts holding the fan clutch to the pulley the the stock fan shroud. The new fan brackets mount to the existing shroud mounting holes. A rubber gasket surrounds the new shroud and seals it against the radiator. An thermostat bulb also contacts the radiator and is adjustable.
After installing the fan, I noticed its control module has some auxiliary inputs to allow for some interesting features. I was inspired by my work on my VW pickup where I modified the factory electric radiator fan. With the base installation, the fan will only run when the its thermostat trips. For a reliable off-road vehicle, I felt some functional additions were in order. (Besides I'm an electrical engineer and can't resist tinkering with things electrical:-)
The module has an A/C input to turn the radiator fan on while the A/C is operating. I tapped into the hot wire of the A/C compressor clutch for this function. This way the fan is only operated while the compressor is actually running. This is handy in town when stopped, there is still fresh air flowing over the A/C evaporator coils. I did have to tweak the setting on the A/C cutoff controller behind the glove box to keep the A/C running at idle.
There is a pair of low-current +12V inputs; one that enables automatic operation (via the built-in adjustable thermostat, initially, I had just tied this input to +12V). The second input allows manual operation of the fan. I simply connected these two inputs to a dash-mounted single pole double throw (SPDT) switch which in turn was wired to a fused 12V source. In the UP position, the fan is in automatic (i.e. thermostat) mode, in the center, it is off (handy for deep water crossings) and in the DOWN position, it is in manual mode (i.e. always on). The switch it tucked up under the ash tray next to an indicator light (#3).
I somehow distrust automatic things and like to know that they are actually running. The electric fan is no exception, so I spliced a wire to the hot side of the fan motor and ran it to a 12V indicator lamp that I installed next to the switch (#2). This way, whenever the fan motor is running, the light illuminates. This is quite useful to see if the thermostat setting is high enough to keep the fan off during highway driving, and low enough for stop-n-go traffic and 4WD Lo rock crawling. Also, with the A/C input (#1) you can also see when the A/C compressor is running.
Cost:
Assuming you already have the electric fan
- (mine was $200 on sale at Perf.Prod.)
SPDT toggle switch $5
12V indicator light 2
Misc wire/connectors 3
-----------------------
Total $10
. The only A/c I have the redneck A/C. 
