Post by iluvdrt on Jul 18, 2003 10:36:42 GMT -5
here is a article i found on making a snorkel. it is very useful. i did this mod on my truck only i ran it out the the fender and not backinto the engine bay.
March 98 - Custom Snorkel
By: Allen Jensen aj7@home.com
The goal of a snorkel is to move the point where your engine is drawing in air, to a better location, in hopes of not sucking in water during stream/lake/etc crossings. Some snorkels move the point where the air is taken in, to as high as the roof. The following design draws air from the rear of the engine compartment, rather than from the original place behind the left headlight
NOTE: This page shows an inexpensive approach I took to attempt to reduce the possibility of water intake into my engine. If you choose to do the same thing, you do so at your own risk. This information is not intended to suggest that water can be prevented from being taken into the engine, thereby preventing engine damage. Installation of this snorkel may reduce the amount of water intake, not prevent it. If you install this snorkel, do not assume that you are any more impervious to engine damage than without it, by driving in deeper water than you would have without the snorkel.
To move the air intake farther back, and up, I installed 3" PVC pipe to make a custom snorkel. Now, the bottom of the intake sits at about 41" off the ground. The unit has only been in operation for a couple weeks.
The entire job cost less than $20. I paid $11.97 for (1) 3" PVC pipe, (2) 45 degree bends, (1) 90 degree bend, and PVC glue. Also needed is (1) 3.5" hose clamp and a 9 inch square piece of screen. The whole job took about 4 - 5 hours.
To make this work, I removed the stock air intake behind the headlight. It was covered with mud residue from a recent 'dive'.
I retained the stock 3" intake connecting tube between the air filter box and the intake. The 90 degree pipe fits over the stock pipe, after trimming about 1/4" off the end.
I cut a 3.5" hole in the side wall, connected a 2" - 3" long piece of pipe between the 90 degree bend and the 45 degree bend. I glued the 2" - 3" piece into the 45 degree bend. I have not yet glued the 3" long piece of pipe into the 90 degree bend. That way the outer unit can be removed, until I am happy with it's overall strength. I will probably only use silicone on this connection, in case I need to take it apart in the future. Also, I did not glue the 90 degree bend to the stock 3" tube, or the 3" tube to the air filter box yet.
To give the new intake a place to get sufficient air, I cut a hole in the side wall behind the cruise control actuator, at the back of the engine compartment. All of the cuts were made with an inexpensive nibbler tool . Harbor Freight Tools at 800-423-2567 lists it as part number 00539-3AXA for $5.99. One of the best tools I think I've bought in a while. No more using tin snips.
Notching out the second 45 degree bend allows it to fit nice and tight against the new hole, while sitting thin enough for the fender to fit back on. The angle allows air to be taken in from the engine compartment, as well as from the open space inside the fender. Before final installation, to prevent anything big from being sucked in, I wrapped the end with screen material and a 3.5" hose clamp.
The completed unit takes up all of the space between the side wall and the fender. To hold the new unit in place, I anchored it to the side wall with large nylon zip ties.
Just for grins I painted it black. Why? I don't know. It is completely invisible when the fender is back on.
Inside the engine compartment after completion.
This diagram shows each connection
www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/snorkel/
here is the site to see the pics, as i cant get them to load up.
March 98 - Custom Snorkel
By: Allen Jensen aj7@home.com
The goal of a snorkel is to move the point where your engine is drawing in air, to a better location, in hopes of not sucking in water during stream/lake/etc crossings. Some snorkels move the point where the air is taken in, to as high as the roof. The following design draws air from the rear of the engine compartment, rather than from the original place behind the left headlight
NOTE: This page shows an inexpensive approach I took to attempt to reduce the possibility of water intake into my engine. If you choose to do the same thing, you do so at your own risk. This information is not intended to suggest that water can be prevented from being taken into the engine, thereby preventing engine damage. Installation of this snorkel may reduce the amount of water intake, not prevent it. If you install this snorkel, do not assume that you are any more impervious to engine damage than without it, by driving in deeper water than you would have without the snorkel.
To move the air intake farther back, and up, I installed 3" PVC pipe to make a custom snorkel. Now, the bottom of the intake sits at about 41" off the ground. The unit has only been in operation for a couple weeks.
The entire job cost less than $20. I paid $11.97 for (1) 3" PVC pipe, (2) 45 degree bends, (1) 90 degree bend, and PVC glue. Also needed is (1) 3.5" hose clamp and a 9 inch square piece of screen. The whole job took about 4 - 5 hours.
To make this work, I removed the stock air intake behind the headlight. It was covered with mud residue from a recent 'dive'.
I retained the stock 3" intake connecting tube between the air filter box and the intake. The 90 degree pipe fits over the stock pipe, after trimming about 1/4" off the end.
I cut a 3.5" hole in the side wall, connected a 2" - 3" long piece of pipe between the 90 degree bend and the 45 degree bend. I glued the 2" - 3" piece into the 45 degree bend. I have not yet glued the 3" long piece of pipe into the 90 degree bend. That way the outer unit can be removed, until I am happy with it's overall strength. I will probably only use silicone on this connection, in case I need to take it apart in the future. Also, I did not glue the 90 degree bend to the stock 3" tube, or the 3" tube to the air filter box yet.
To give the new intake a place to get sufficient air, I cut a hole in the side wall behind the cruise control actuator, at the back of the engine compartment. All of the cuts were made with an inexpensive nibbler tool . Harbor Freight Tools at 800-423-2567 lists it as part number 00539-3AXA for $5.99. One of the best tools I think I've bought in a while. No more using tin snips.
Notching out the second 45 degree bend allows it to fit nice and tight against the new hole, while sitting thin enough for the fender to fit back on. The angle allows air to be taken in from the engine compartment, as well as from the open space inside the fender. Before final installation, to prevent anything big from being sucked in, I wrapped the end with screen material and a 3.5" hose clamp.
The completed unit takes up all of the space between the side wall and the fender. To hold the new unit in place, I anchored it to the side wall with large nylon zip ties.
Just for grins I painted it black. Why? I don't know. It is completely invisible when the fender is back on.
Inside the engine compartment after completion.
This diagram shows each connection
www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/snorkel/
here is the site to see the pics, as i cant get them to load up.