Timing Chain Questions

[mt]

It's the truth, you just never know these days. Alright, thanks!

Well, I checked the pistons at lunch and whatever was on there has dried up, so, must have been water, not oil.

[mt]

By the way, what should I use, both on the block and oil pan timing plate etc. to clean gasket material off? I do not have air tools. Gasket scraper? Scotchbrite? Someone mentioned a medium stiffness wire brush on a power drill..?

And I should have the head machined?

[DeadlyPeace]

A gasket scraper and Scotchbrite will work fine. Could also use a sharp razor blade. A medium stiffness wire brush on a drill will work too, just don't want to push too hard with it. You'll also want to cover up any areas (like cylinders) that practicals might get caught in. If the pistons are removed then you don't need to worry about it. Just make sure everything is good and clean when you're ready to reassemble it. Also if you use any rags, make sure they're lint free and of course clean.

If you happen to pull the pistons you can clean top of them with the wire brush also. Just be careful not to hit the side of the piston much. Also if you remove the pistons make sure to mark the rod caps for the cylinder # it goes to and the direction toward the front of the engine. Most rod caps will have a distinct difference in the front and back, like just the front corners being removed. On the bearing there should be a small pinch tab to allow the bearing to only fit into the rod and the cap one way. These tabs should be on the same side when the rod and cap are put together. Some pistons will have a mark on top of them for what should be facing forward too.

The head is probably ok as long as you didn't have any overheating problems. To check it use a straightedge across the length (along the sides), width (along the ends), and diagonal length (from corner to corner). Use a flat blade type feeler gauge along the straightedge to see if there's any wrapage. If any of it exceeds .076mm then it needs to be milled (machined). Check the block the same way.

FYI: When reassembling make sure to put a thin coat of clean oil on moving parts and the cylinder walls. Rod bearing you can just dip in the oil before installing to the rod and the cap.

[mt]

Thank you very much.

Checked the rods last night.........#3 & 4 have some play in them. Does that mean bearings? Looks like I will be pulling them. None of this requires pulling the rest of the engine, does it? I'm almost wondering at this point if I aught to just pull it and replace bearings and all that, but if it's not necessary really I won't. Just figure since I'm this deep..

Anyways thanks a lot for the help.

[speedy]

Doesn't it stink when you do more investigating and find more stuff that needs to be done? I'm no professional mechanic but it sounds like you are getting closer and closer to your first engine removal. I don't know if you can replace those bearings and expect the new ones to be tighter without machining the crankshaft. I would also wonder if you can replace the piston rings without at least honing the cylinders to get better compression. I've been there and done that and I now wish I would have done an engine swap! I will be interested to see what the more experienced members have to say.

[DeadlyPeace]

You can replace the bearings w/o removing the motor as long as the crank shaft or the rods aren't worn. This being your first build, I would suggest that you pull the rest of it out and take it to a machine shop for them to mic the crank and rods for you. Most shop should do this for free. If the crank shaft and/or rods are worn they will need to be machined for a larger bearings. Could also have them check the piston to cylinder wall clearance also. If they're fine then go ahead and have them hone it too. You can buy a honer that attaches to a drill, but if the block is already out then might as well let the machine shop do it. Coast you about $40 to hone.

[mt]

Ok thanks. I'm actually most likely just getting a rebuild kit from engnbldr.com at this point. But I guess I need to make sure crank shaft is good first? I will be pulling the engine. Thanks a lot for all the help.

[mt]

Is there something different with Toyota engines that would make me want the cylinders honed rather than bored, if possible? I remember hearing something a while back....
I talked with a machine shop and they mentioned boring, new intake & exaust stems (or something), and possibly head and block resurfacing and maybe crank work. Somewhere near $200 for all that. Seem reasonable?

Yeah, Speedy, maybe down the road I'll wish I did a swap, but I think I'm going with rebuilding this engine (for really only around $500 with machining and the kit, I think), and I'm really starting to lean towards the Marlin L52HD. I guess I like debt..

[DeadlyPeace]

The only time you would need to bore the cylinders is if they are worn too much or you want to put larger pistons in. Honing just resurfaces the cylinder walls to remove the glazing on them.

[mt]

Ok. The shop was insisting (without having even seen the engine) that I'd want it bored, is why I ask. Someone had mentioned at some point that there's a harder surface in the cylinders, and if you bore, you bore through it, so they wear out faster, so you just want to hone it. I don't know if it's true, I just heard it at some point and don't want to let these guys bore it just because they're used to domestic engines and think they need to. Anyway, thanks.

[DeadlyPeace]

I'd say check with a few other machine shops and see what they say. I would almost say no to the one you have been talking to.

[mt]

Ok. Does $450ish sound reasonable for washing, resurfacing, boring, crank work? Maybe it varies regionally...Sounding expensive though. Hopefully I don't need all that work. Thank you very much for your help. I can't wait until it's actually reassembly time. That's when the questions will really start. ;D

[mt]

Ok, I got the engine back with a rebuild kit. Is assembly lube cool to grease things up with? Also, the shop ordered the rebuild kit. They assured me that they use high quality parts, but the timing chain has the plastic guides, it's all made in USA stuff, and so I'm just a little worried about it...I don't think the gaskets matter so much (or do they?) but I'm concerned about the timing chain, head gasket and camshaft..what do you think? I can look again to see what brand the stuff is.

I ordered an engine stand, so hopefully by next week I'll be well on my way to reassembly.