Post by DeadlyPeace on Nov 15, 2007 12:35:49 GMT -5
I just happen to come across this article on Setting Up Your Four Wheel Drive and thought it might be good for some of those new to wheeling and/or new to building a wheeler. It doesn't tell you how to actually build one, but it could help point you in the right direction.
Setting Up Your Four Wheel Drive
by Del Albright
"Lift it, lock it, winch it and rack it!" That's what I tell folks who are getting started on building up their four-wheel drive rigs. Minus a few technicalities, that's what it takes to have a "do-everything" kind of vehicle. How much does it cost? How long does it take?
Well, the answers to those questions are easy: "How much money do you have?" and " How much time do you want to spend?"
First of all, if you're new to the idea of building up your 4wheel drive, you'll find a lot of folks who agree with me that a little lift is the first step. This is usually accomplished through a suspension lift of anywhere between 2 1/2 inches to 4+ inches.
You need some lift to get over the rocks and water bars and rough terrain that we like to travel. Stock height is made for good dirt roads without too many obstructions. Besides that, one of the reasons we like to lift our rigs is so we can put a larger diameter tire under us.
My research (field and written) indicates that most of us start with 2 1/2 to 3 inch lifts, and 31" to 33" inch tires. Then if we continue to build our rigs, or try harder trails, we jump the lift to 4" to 6", and the tires to 35" or 37". You're getting pretty hard-core here.
Lift, and thus tire size, makes a substantial difference in what you can clear. The only thing that lifts your pumpkin above the rocks is tire size. The only thing that helps get bigger tires under your rig is lift. But there is a stopping point.
There are all kinds of advantages AND disadvantages to making these modifications to what the factory engineers figured out for your rig. You need to do some homework on both before you decide. Radical lifts and tire changes do all kinds of weird things to your gear ratios and drive train.
Some lifts (over 4") require lengthening drivelines and moving all sorts of parts around. Some tire size changes modify your gear ratio to the point that you are severely underpowered. So be smart, talk to folks and read a few books first.
One good book to review is Brad DeLong's, 4 Wheel Freedom, The Art of Off Road Driving (Paladin Press). Brad gives you several scenarios for modifying your vehicle and lists the many advantages and disadvantages related to gearing and lifting. You can also get great ideas from the internet, such as the many great four wheel drive sites that have grown in popularity over the last year or so.
"Locking" your vehicle is the next step. By that, I include such things as the many options in limited slip, positive traction, and locking devices.
The point is to give your vehicle some of its real potential as a four-wheel drive. As a starter, many off-roaders recommend having some sort of locking (or limited slip) differential in at least the rear axle. The front axle can wait until you get more radical or have more money!
I use ARB Air Lockers in my rear differential and I have noticed a substantial improvement in trail ability. My partners use everything from Detroits to Lock Rites to Posi-traction to Eatons to about anything you can think of.
Again, you have to inventory your wallet first. Also, you have to ask yourself just how much off-roading you want to do. For many folks (including some Rubicon users), a simple limited slip in the rear is enough.
Without a differential modification, your current rig is really still a two-wheel drive vehicle. By modifying the rear axle, you've grown to the 3-wheel drive. And by "locking" both front and read diff's, you've now graduated to a true four-wheel drive.
Naturally, most off highway four-wheel drive enthusiasts sport a winch on the front bumper. Some even have one in the rear. But for the average person, even SUV owners, an electric (or now hydraulic) 8000 to 12000 pound winch is nearly a necessity.
If you "winch it", you'll find yourself having an increased confidence in where you go (and get stuck). You can also clear trails and pull out your buddies, let alone haul firewood into camp.
Lastly, for those of you who can't help but take the kitchen sink with you when you go camping/four wheeling, then you'd best add some sort of cargo carrying device on your rig. For short wheel base utility rigs, a rack on the back works great. You can carry ice chests, camping gear, firewood, gas and water cans, etc. outside of your rig so the family dog can have the back seat!
For SUV folks, you may want to consider a cargo rack on top of your vehicle. Then you can really haul your whole garage full of stuff!! But by "racking it", you've increased the available space so that overnight trips are certainly a lot more comfortable.
Oh, and obviously, if all your gear is now outside your rig, and you don't have a dog, then your back seat is now available for the in-laws. Yes, that's one consideration (smile).
Now I know some of you hard-core off highway gurus are snickering at the simplicity of some of these changes. Well, I grant you that the modifications can go on and on until your savings account is depleted, your garage is full of old parts, and your rig has easily doubled in value.
For the average person, a "lift it, lock it, winch it, rack it" approach can be done for not that much money and time. And it'll make a huge difference in the performance of your vehicle.
Again, I must emphasize that there are complete books on this process, but this will give you a starting point. So count your money and dig in!!
Good luck.
Setting Up Your Four Wheel Drive
by Del Albright
"Lift it, lock it, winch it and rack it!" That's what I tell folks who are getting started on building up their four-wheel drive rigs. Minus a few technicalities, that's what it takes to have a "do-everything" kind of vehicle. How much does it cost? How long does it take?
Well, the answers to those questions are easy: "How much money do you have?" and " How much time do you want to spend?"
First of all, if you're new to the idea of building up your 4wheel drive, you'll find a lot of folks who agree with me that a little lift is the first step. This is usually accomplished through a suspension lift of anywhere between 2 1/2 inches to 4+ inches.
You need some lift to get over the rocks and water bars and rough terrain that we like to travel. Stock height is made for good dirt roads without too many obstructions. Besides that, one of the reasons we like to lift our rigs is so we can put a larger diameter tire under us.
My research (field and written) indicates that most of us start with 2 1/2 to 3 inch lifts, and 31" to 33" inch tires. Then if we continue to build our rigs, or try harder trails, we jump the lift to 4" to 6", and the tires to 35" or 37". You're getting pretty hard-core here.
Lift, and thus tire size, makes a substantial difference in what you can clear. The only thing that lifts your pumpkin above the rocks is tire size. The only thing that helps get bigger tires under your rig is lift. But there is a stopping point.
There are all kinds of advantages AND disadvantages to making these modifications to what the factory engineers figured out for your rig. You need to do some homework on both before you decide. Radical lifts and tire changes do all kinds of weird things to your gear ratios and drive train.
Some lifts (over 4") require lengthening drivelines and moving all sorts of parts around. Some tire size changes modify your gear ratio to the point that you are severely underpowered. So be smart, talk to folks and read a few books first.
One good book to review is Brad DeLong's, 4 Wheel Freedom, The Art of Off Road Driving (Paladin Press). Brad gives you several scenarios for modifying your vehicle and lists the many advantages and disadvantages related to gearing and lifting. You can also get great ideas from the internet, such as the many great four wheel drive sites that have grown in popularity over the last year or so.
"Locking" your vehicle is the next step. By that, I include such things as the many options in limited slip, positive traction, and locking devices.
The point is to give your vehicle some of its real potential as a four-wheel drive. As a starter, many off-roaders recommend having some sort of locking (or limited slip) differential in at least the rear axle. The front axle can wait until you get more radical or have more money!
I use ARB Air Lockers in my rear differential and I have noticed a substantial improvement in trail ability. My partners use everything from Detroits to Lock Rites to Posi-traction to Eatons to about anything you can think of.
Again, you have to inventory your wallet first. Also, you have to ask yourself just how much off-roading you want to do. For many folks (including some Rubicon users), a simple limited slip in the rear is enough.
Without a differential modification, your current rig is really still a two-wheel drive vehicle. By modifying the rear axle, you've grown to the 3-wheel drive. And by "locking" both front and read diff's, you've now graduated to a true four-wheel drive.
Naturally, most off highway four-wheel drive enthusiasts sport a winch on the front bumper. Some even have one in the rear. But for the average person, even SUV owners, an electric (or now hydraulic) 8000 to 12000 pound winch is nearly a necessity.
If you "winch it", you'll find yourself having an increased confidence in where you go (and get stuck). You can also clear trails and pull out your buddies, let alone haul firewood into camp.
Lastly, for those of you who can't help but take the kitchen sink with you when you go camping/four wheeling, then you'd best add some sort of cargo carrying device on your rig. For short wheel base utility rigs, a rack on the back works great. You can carry ice chests, camping gear, firewood, gas and water cans, etc. outside of your rig so the family dog can have the back seat!
For SUV folks, you may want to consider a cargo rack on top of your vehicle. Then you can really haul your whole garage full of stuff!! But by "racking it", you've increased the available space so that overnight trips are certainly a lot more comfortable.
Oh, and obviously, if all your gear is now outside your rig, and you don't have a dog, then your back seat is now available for the in-laws. Yes, that's one consideration (smile).
Now I know some of you hard-core off highway gurus are snickering at the simplicity of some of these changes. Well, I grant you that the modifications can go on and on until your savings account is depleted, your garage is full of old parts, and your rig has easily doubled in value.
For the average person, a "lift it, lock it, winch it, rack it" approach can be done for not that much money and time. And it'll make a huge difference in the performance of your vehicle.
Again, I must emphasize that there are complete books on this process, but this will give you a starting point. So count your money and dig in!!
Good luck.
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