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Post by havasutoy on Jun 30, 2009 13:52:45 GMT -5
Have A 88 4runner with a 22r late model engine. Engine toast and want to build fresh from bottom up. Took block to a machine shop and they said it was already .040 over and we could take it to .080 over. Just not that sure if this is a good idea or if I should find a new block altogether. Man it gets HOT in the summer here and I dont want to end up with an overheater after all this work. Any opinions on the matter. Thanks!!!!!
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Post by fourwd1 on Jun 30, 2009 14:10:04 GMT -5
IIRC, Toyota says .040 over is the maximum overbore, so if I was going to go more then what they reccomend, I'd only go slightly over (to .050 or maybe .060).
As far as creating more heat, you can always get a 22RTE radiator. It has a 3 row core and bolts right in.
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Post by whomadewho on Jul 1, 2009 12:36:54 GMT -5
Boring a 22r engine to.080 would be WAY to much. Toyota says .040 is MAX., but with the the cast block,and the aluminum head combination and the history of head, gasket,head bolt and heating issues,even the MAXIMUM of .040 over is stretching it. I would stay in the .020 range. Before you go any further, STOP and do your home work,and some research. Check the crank shaft,if the crank is good and you go with a bare block, the crank is going to have to be line bored. Price out new pistons,rings,bearings the machine work,and a gasket overhaul kit oil pump etc. How is the top half of the engine? Most machine shops dint guarantee the work,if they dint assemble the engine. You may save a buck or two,by going with a different block. You may also might want to consider going with a rebuilt short block or a complete engine assembly,which would come with a written guarantee. GOOD LUCK
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Post by havasutoy on Jul 2, 2009 21:41:25 GMT -5
Hey thanks for the advice folks, I appreciate it greatly. Looked into picking up a different block and after machining and baking the new (replacement) block it is just not cost effective. The crank was toast as well as the head and top end components. I was going to start from scratch from the bottom up and at this point it looks as though a long block from a shop is in tall order. I dont think I'll save any money doing it myself with having to buy everything!!!!!!! So, now the shopping begins. Looking at ATK, Johns Foreign, Japan, etc. for a long block. Found a Co. on ebay from Washington State, Sunwest Automotive, that looked promising, I liked the printout that comes with the engine and for $1100.00 I dont think I'll do better. $100.00 more and it comes with a new head casting. Thanks again. I'll keep the progress posted.
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Post by whomadewho on Jul 3, 2009 12:02:07 GMT -5
Going with a complete engine assembly is probably going to be the best choice. A word of CAUTION - READ THE FINE PRINT - BEFORE -making the purchase. you stated the engine is toast, some re builders will not except a core that can not be rebuilt,or if the engine is returned disassembled. READ the fine print in the engine warranty - what is covered - How many years or miles - In case of a warranty issue who pays for the ride. The most important - Their reputation,the quality of their workmanship,and their willingness to help you with tech questions,or in the event of a warranty claim. READ up on proper engine break in,todays motor oil are not meant for older engines.
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