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Post by Toyotalicious on Sept 9, 2003 1:16:31 GMT -5
Hi my name is Art. I have a 92 p/u 4x4 with a 22re. I bought my truck about 8 months ago. Ever since i got it, it's been shooting smoke from the exhaust whenever I turn it on when it's cold. Other than that it doesn't shoot smoke. A few months after i got it, i got the head rebuilt. The guy i took it to that rebuilt my heads said that the previous owner had overheated it pretty bad, so he thinks the smoke might be from bad piston rings. Anyhow, i tried putting a thicker oil in it (10w40), and it still does the smoke thing. The smoke is a light blue, and i also have to put some oil in it every once in a while between oil changes. I don't want to rebuild the engine yet, until it dies. Is there a way to aliviate the smoking, should i use 40 oil, without the 10w. What do you guys think? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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Post by BlackBeast on Sept 9, 2003 5:58:37 GMT -5
Well I gotta tell ya that your 22RE engine will probably never die....Thats what I have in my 91 4x4 pickup and the guy I took it to to get it rebuilt said it shouldn't of even ran, he said everything was bad in it....so the chances of your motor dieing are slim....I would say get it rebuilt...other wise the oil i use in mine which does really good is: Quaker State, Peak Performance 10w-40 and it is really good....you can get a lot of other kinds....ones for high mileage trucks is what i use to use but this is pretty good stuff.  |
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Post by fourwd1 on Sept 9, 2003 7:10:44 GMT -5
When it only smokes on start up after sitting a while, it usually means bad valve guide seals. When they get old they become hard and brittle, allowing oil to drip down into the cylinders, which burns off at start up causing the cloud of blue smoke you see. You don't notice it when you're driving because the leakage is so slow.
But since you had the head rebuilt it would tend to rule that out. However, bad rings usually results in constant oil burn while you're running. Your symptoms still point to valve guide seals.
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Post by Sean on Sept 9, 2003 12:58:54 GMT -5
Just to clear something up about oil. The first number represents how long the oil takes to reach it's viscosity. The lower the number the faster it heats up.
Once at running temp there is no differece between 10-40 and straight 40.
Since your problem is at start up, it may help, but I would try straight 30 first.
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Post by Toyotalicious on Sept 9, 2003 17:11:39 GMT -5
yeah i think it's the valve seals, it makes sense. I think the guy who rebuilt the head just left the same ones on. Im going to try a synthetic 30 oil, maybe mobil one. Hopefully that lessen the smoking.
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Post by 4xfred on Sept 9, 2003 19:11:39 GMT -5
;D I agree w/the previous posts as to valve seals being the problem. But is it really a problem? A little smoke @ startup is easy to deal with. The "rule of thumb" w/ a SBC is:"if it don't smoke, it ain't runnin' good". A little smoke should get little worries. Later...
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racer85304
Full Member
89 toyota pickup, Aussie locker. MC4.7 gears
Posts: 135
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Post by racer85304 on Sept 10, 2003 9:56:23 GMT -5
i would not run synthetic oil. running synthenic oil on a motor with a lot of miles may cause your seals to leak. if something that is leaking in your head and cause it to smoke it might make it leak worse.
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Post by Sean on Sept 10, 2003 10:37:54 GMT -5
Synthetic will definately make it worse. Just out of high school I worked at a lube shop for a couple years that carried Mobil 1. According to the Mobil rep conventional oil has varrying particle sizes, while mobil which is man made does not . This is what makes synthethic lubricant so much better. It also means that it will path through leaks much quicker. I love mobil, run it in anything with a motor with no leaks. The oil pump went in my 70 Challenger R/T and I swear the only thing that saved my motor was mobile. But for an older motor it's apoor choice. The mobile rep wanted us to reccommend it to everyone, which I protested because of the leak issue in older motors. His response was, and I'll never forget it, "It's a good thing, it will show you where your leaks are" Salesman  |
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Post by Toyotalicious on Sept 16, 2003 16:34:17 GMT -5
haha, man i love salesmen. wow i didn't know that about synthetic oils. You guys saved my life.
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Post by Discipher on Sept 16, 2003 19:12:43 GMT -5
Try using a product called Engine Restorer. It comes in a can and works wonders. If you have a problem with your cylinder walls having minor slight scratches, it will allow more oil into the chamber and burn it off, this is most common at early start up and continues on when under load. This product will fill those slight scratches and not allow oil up into the walls, I used it in a friends old chevy plow truck that was beat to crap and burnt oil like a sonofa and it added an almost instant 35 hp and cured the oil problem. Theres also a use of using a seal revitilizer that much similar that will rejuvanate oil seals and gaskets, used this on my leaking merc cougar that leaked oil almost everywhere and it worked really well.
In my yota i use a semi synthetic oil and have had nothing but good things to say since i switched, seems to have a bit more power and better gas mileage since i put that and a K&N in.
Discipher
88 Pickup w/ 22RE
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Post by Toyotalicious on Sept 22, 2003 22:01:38 GMT -5
I did some research on the engine restorer, i think i will try it out. First i think i'll try the straight 30 oil. Im kind of weary about putting other stuff in my engine, but i guess i will try it anyway.
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NCSU
Full Member
'94 Pickup 22RE, 2"body lift, 33x12.50 BFG A/T's, RS5000's, K&N, Airbox mod, Flowmaster-2.5"pipe
Posts: 245
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Post by NCSU on Sept 22, 2003 23:36:03 GMT -5
I have a '94 Pickup 22RE with 170,000 miles on it. I usually use Castrol GTX 20W-50 when I change my oil. I typically stick with the thick stuff, tends to give me the best results
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Post by Toyotalicious on Sept 28, 2003 3:18:14 GMT -5
what happens if you use too thick of an oil. Does it just make your engine work harder? Worse gas mileage? Less power?
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Post by littleman on Oct 11, 2003 1:13:27 GMT -5
20-50 kicks ass as far as the problem you are having goes. I dealt with the same issue about a year ago. I thought I was going to have to rebuild and as a last effort tried 20-50 and the problem went away. I also had a slight leakage around the timing cover and valve cover which also disapeared.
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Post by Toyotalicious on Oct 11, 2003 19:57:34 GMT -5
I just recently tried putting the engine restorer stuff in it a few days ago, and this morning when i turned it on there was no smoke. Hopefully it countinues this way. ONe of my neighbors also told me to go with 20-50. I'll see how this engine restorer stuff keeps working out. Oh yeah, i went to get my engine's compression checked at my school, and piston number 4 is low. That was before the engine restorer, i'll check it again in a few weeks. And my spark plugs are full of burn oil gunk and deposits. I'll have to clean those everytime i change my oil from now on.
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