Loss of power

[Justin]

My 4-runner has lost power. When driving it has no power till I get the revs up to like 2800. It is worse when it is cold. I have changed my plugs, plug whires, dis cap, rotor button, air filter, This helped a little but there is still something wrong. Also i am not getting very much heat out of my heater. Not sure if this is realated or not.

[DeadlyPeace]

Try replacing the fuel filter.

[Sean]

Usually a clogged fuel filter will cause major bogging and hesitation not just low power.

Does it idle rough? You can do a clyinder cut out test by pulling the spark plug wires off the distributor one at a time while its running. If you pull one or more off and the idle doesnt change you have a dead cylinder.
If thats the case then its time to compression test your motor. If you find a cylinder with low or no compression try adding 50ml of oil through the spark plug hole. If the compression goes up you have an issue with your valves, if it stays the same then its the rings.

If you do the cut out test and its good and then compression test it and its also good then i would start looking at the fuel system starting with the filter. If it was a domestic i would say go ahead and change the filter for shits and giggles anyway but i think Toyota wants around seventy bucks for their inline style canister filters.

[boat309]

I have a v6 truck and i also have notitced a loss of power. it dosent idle ruff at all and it sounds great. it just dosent have the power it used to. i have changed the pulgs wires cap rotor fuel filter etc and still nothing. i think i am going to change the o2 sensor

[Justin]

It still idles good and runs fine. It even starts every time. I will have to check out the fuel filter.

[Sean]

I have a 3.0 that starts fine and idles fine but sucks for power. Cylinders 1 and 6 are completely dead. Takes about two minutes to pull the wires off the distributor one at a time to figure out if you have a problem. The v6s are a little notorious for burnt valves.

[Justin]

I pulled the plud whires one at a time and that is not the problem. I did buy a fuel filter i was going to put it on today but it is too cold out to be messing around in the driveway. It seems to be getting alot worse gas mileage though.

[ToyotaMike]

Any loud engine ticking, maybe even piston slap? Piston slap is common and causes the knock sensor to pull the timing/power. Just for an experiment try pulling your battery cable for a few minutes to reset the computer and drive it around and see if that frees back up any power even for a little bit. If it does then it be your knock sensor and a rebuild should be looked into for the future.

[Sean]

Could also be the O2 sensor or the air speed/density sensor. Has it thrown any codes, ie. is the check engine light coming on?

[Justin]

No there is no ticking. It sounds good. I have had my check engine light has come 3 times in the past couple of mothes but it only stays on for line 30 secs. I looked in my haynes book on how to run the coads but i can not find where to jump the conecter under the hood.

[ToyotaMike]

So no ticks all through the RPM band? Mine was always at about 2500-3000. Well Throw a timing light on it just to make sure the timing is right and check the O2 sensor like mentioned.

[Justin]

How do you check the O2 sensor.

[skydso]

I have a V6 3.0lt auto trans and on flat ground it's ok and when I floor it, it speeds up ok. But when I'm going up a hill, say at 30 or 40 and I floor it, I feel the kick downs by the gearbox, revs go up, fuel goes down too, but the car doesn't accellerate!
Why would that be?
Any ideas?

[Justin]

Well I think I have found the problem. It has no power, the heater dosn't work right and now I am loosing coolent. So i'm thinking its the head gasket.