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frames
Dec 13, 2007 7:14:29 GMT -5
Post by skatermania88 on Dec 13, 2007 7:14:29 GMT -5
Hey guys I've recently decided that there's no way around it I need a new frame. The passenger rear frame rail has been patched... Atleast 10 or so times, all of the patches are right around the shock mount. It holds, together fine, but I'm guaging interest in a SAS, and I'd hate to put that on then have the frame fall apart. Plus all those patches just look like crap and the taller the truck gets the more obvious it is! My original idea was to just take a rear section of a frame from a toy at the yard, probably from the little 2" or so round tube behind the gas tank, all the way to the rear, cut mine rear section of the frame off then weld the other peice and plate it in to increase the surface weld. Then I decided I could get the material and pay less then just fab my own custom rear end with some 2x4x1/4 or 3/16, then put my own crossmembers in to maximize my space on the bottom for a air/ gas tank or some kind of tool storage. I'm not sure how many people there are out there that are that crazy but I figure if it doesn't work I could always get a frame and do the complete restoration because that's what it'll be if I've got to do that! What do you guys think about my ideas?
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frames
Dec 13, 2007 9:04:03 GMT -5
Post by Hoodlum on Dec 13, 2007 9:04:03 GMT -5
Customizing is def the way to go. It's always better to have things set up the way you need it to be.
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frames
Dec 13, 2007 12:24:14 GMT -5
Post by seth999 on Dec 13, 2007 12:24:14 GMT -5
I don't know exactly what you are looking for but have you ever thought about cutting the back of the frame off and just building a truggy type tube rear...I don't know how you could use leafs with it but it would be a great time to upgrade to a link setup...just a thought
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frames
Dec 13, 2007 13:59:24 GMT -5
Post by DeadlyPeace on Dec 13, 2007 13:59:24 GMT -5
First off, is this DD (Daily Driver) or a TQ (Trailer Queen)?
If it's a DD then I say cut the rear half of the frame off and weld a new (or in better shape) rear half back on. Just make sure that it's done right so that it will hold together. Or just go with another frame and swap the body, engine, etc over to it. Either one takes some time and work.
If it's a TQ then cutting off the rear half of the frame and doing a tubed (truggy) rear frame with a 3 or 4 link system would be nice, but it can cost a few $$$ and take more time and work.
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frames
Dec 14, 2007 7:48:55 GMT -5
Post by skatermania88 on Dec 14, 2007 7:48:55 GMT -5
Yeah I was just gonna cut the whole rear section behind the tank and just fab one up. I could use the passenger side frame rail to make a jig, bc it's not too bad but it's getting there. the reason I didn't want to cut off a frame from a yard and tack it up there, other than cost is I don't like the big crossmember that the spare tire used to mount to, I'd like to get more space out of the botom there. I'm also gonna throw in the rear leafs, and get rid of my cracked lift blocks, while I'm doing all that work to the rear.
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frames
Dec 15, 2007 14:43:07 GMT -5
Post by Sean on Dec 15, 2007 14:43:07 GMT -5
To extend the weld surface be sure to cut your frame at a angle of like 30 degrees or so. Then cut the new frame to match. This is how older semi trucks frames are done when converted for a dump box or some other straight truck application.
As far as fabbing your own frame with the right material, time and effort you could end up with something far superior to what you are going to find at the scrap yard. Frames are best welded with stick but its better done well with a mig then poorly with stick.
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frames
Dec 17, 2007 8:53:12 GMT -5
Post by skatermania88 on Dec 17, 2007 8:53:12 GMT -5
I totally agree man. I'm definetly not taking any chances of not having enough surface weld. I'll angle cut it and then weld plate on both side of the frame. I'm definetly gonna go with the custom fabbed peice, and as far as stick or mig... Me and wire just make big messes! Atleast with the POS little wire welder I've got! thanks guys.
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frames
Dec 17, 2007 13:41:29 GMT -5
Post by DeadlyPeace on Dec 17, 2007 13:41:29 GMT -5
If you want to make it so it doesn't look like it has been welded you can drill six 5/8" hole on each side of frame cut. Cut the plate to fit on the inside the frame and at least 14" long. Then when you put the plate on the inside of the frame you can spot weld it through the holes in the frame. Do this to each side of each frame section cut. Did this to extend a Jeep frame once and it worked good.
FYI: I've seen the frame cut two different ways. 1) Cut at a angle of 30 degrees or 2) with a stepped cut. Basically you cut half way up the frame then about 8"-12" along the middle of the frame and then up the other half of the frame.
I've never done the stepped cut and think that 30 degree cut does just fine and is less work.
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frames
Dec 20, 2007 14:46:02 GMT -5
Post by skatermania88 on Dec 20, 2007 14:46:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. I like the idea of the interior plate. That was the one thing I really didn't want to see under the fenderwell, a big patch.
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