|
|
Post by cr884runner on Jan 23, 2008 2:37:18 GMT -5
toyotas shackles are wider on one end and narrower on the other  This is only true with the shackles on the front leaf springs and he has a IFS front end.The shackles you were talking about are only on the front springs on my era of trucks so therefore you were talking about the front shackles since we arent talking about rear shackles off of a taco. |
|
|
|
Post by colosusabbott on Jan 23, 2008 5:32:57 GMT -5
i was talking about rear taco shackles, because i dont know what older toyota shackles are shaped like. im a chevy guy. i have a taco with 9 inches of lift on 33s for my daily driver though
|
|
|
|
Post by cr884runner on Jan 23, 2008 10:16:52 GMT -5
i was talking about rear taco shackles, because i dont know what older toyota shackles are shaped like. im a chevy guy. i have a taco with 9 inches of lift on 33s for my daily driver though congrats man but I was looking for info on my era of truck shackles to try to save some money as I know quite a few guys have done that before on this board. stating facts that are irrelevant to this topic is unnecessary and now I am still that much further away from obtaining my answer |
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on Jan 23, 2008 10:56:00 GMT -5
what does him having a 4 runner have to do with the shackles...lol i was talking about rear taco shackles, because i dont know what older toyota shackles are shaped like.
Think of as if you were wanting to know how to tear down a front axle on a Chevy and someone told you how to tear down a front Toyota axle. Might be good information, but doesn't do you any good cuz the axles are built completely different. |
|
|
|
Post by colosusabbott on Jan 23, 2008 15:05:25 GMT -5
wow, your mixing up what i said. dont do that. i said a fact based on my knowledge of tacomas, by saying toyota shackles were shaped funny, which might have been false, so i later stated i knew tacoma shackles were like that but i didnt know for sure if older rear toyota shackles were the same. find your own god damn information then smartass
|
|
|
|
Post by cr884runner on Jan 23, 2008 21:55:08 GMT -5
doubt mods are going to appreciate your use of vulgar language especially the gd word... if you shall want to state a fact about the tacomas theres a section for those if you must... i can talk about engine problems in the 3.4 v6 but how shall that relate to the 3.0 v6? just keep it in mind...
|
|
|
|
Post by toyotakid508 on Jan 24, 2008 0:19:37 GMT -5
Rear shackles are pretty easy to make, i made mine for my 88 pick up which im almost positive has the same setup as your 4 runner and i used 3/8'' thick steel and put what i think was a 2'' piece of square tubing 1/4'' thick in between them..they've been on my truck for almost a year now and i havent had any problems..Just thought it might be more helpful than info about tacos.
|
|
|
|
Post by cr884runner on Jan 24, 2008 14:35:57 GMT -5
Hey thanks toyotakid508, might you have a pic of that by chance. Thanks.
|
|
rsdan
Full Member
Posts: 116
|
Post by rsdan on Jan 24, 2008 17:42:39 GMT -5
yeah I built my own shackles. I used 3/8 steel for them with a connecting piece. Although I think the torch was too hot because eventually they bent on the drivers side rear. So I made some new one's using a plasma cutter and I havn't had any problems so far.
|
|
|
|
Post by Sean on Jan 24, 2008 20:20:15 GMT -5
I made mine out 2x5/8 bar stock. Seven inches hole to hole. No connection bar. Ran them for over five years with no problem.
|
|
|
|
Post by toyotakid508 on Jan 25, 2008 1:19:31 GMT -5
No problem Cr..this is the best picture of the shackle i have right now, ill take some more if i remember tomorow...gettin my license back tomorow and hittin the woods ASAP!!!   [edit] Turned the links into photos.
DP |
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on Jan 25, 2008 11:42:13 GMT -5
Shackles can be easy to make. I have aftermarket shackles on the rear, but I did make straight ones for the front out of 1/2" stock. I used a piece of 3/8"x2" stock for the connection bar. At the bottom inside of the shackle I have another piece of 1/2" stock welded on each side. Ignore this, you don't need these. They are there cuz of where the shackles bolts to the frame is wider then the springs. Here's a couple pics of them.
Since you're not making yours as long you might get away without the connection bar in in the middle as long as you use 3/8" stock or thicker. Just remember that for every 1" of lift you want you need about 2" extra for the shackle length. This all depends on the angle your shackles sits at. 15* forward is about right.
|
|
|
|
Post by Sean on Jan 25, 2008 16:15:07 GMT -5
I dont know why you guys think you need a connecting bar. I have been making shackles since i was a teenager and i have never used them.
|
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on Jan 25, 2008 17:57:52 GMT -5
On a DD I had got the death wobbles from the shackles not having enough support. The longer and/or thinner the metal the shackles are the less support you have. On a trail only rig I wouldn't worry about the connection bar.
|
|
|
|
Post by Sean on Jan 26, 2008 20:51:51 GMT -5
I just cant buy that. What kind of material was the shackle made of that it allowed that kind of deflection without outright bending? Maybe you drilled the holes too big and they were able to rock on the bolts. There are way to many stock applications out there running no connecting bar for me to buy into the idea that they can somehow create a death wobble, an issue normally related to steering.
|
|
|
|
Post by colosusabbott on Jan 28, 2008 13:41:02 GMT -5
the connecting bar isnt to keep it from wobbling, its a safety thing, to give the shackles more strength, to prevent them from bending or breaking. obviously the longer the shackle is, the easier it can bend or break. it might not be so bad on toyotas, i made a set of front shackles on my 91 k5 blazer without a connecting bar and they are bent horribly, and all i do is drive it down the main strip on the weekends. no offroading whatsoever. its not hard, when you make your shackles, just weld a peice of square tubing the width of the spring in the middle. if you cant weld it or get it welded for whatever reasons, drill another hole and bolt the peice in.
|
|
|
|
Post by Sean on Jan 28, 2008 16:22:36 GMT -5
Agreed that the longer they are the more prone to bending. But if they are bending a link bar isnt the best solution imo, thicker barstock is. Leaf sprung gravel haul trucks use straight shackles with no bar. Shackles are like an inch thick though.
For my Toy i went with 5/8" stock. No way its ever going to bend. Something else would let go first. Could have welded in a connecting bar but why? Front shackles i bought from All Pro way back when dont have a bar either.
|
|
|
|
Post by colosusabbott on Jan 28, 2008 17:11:45 GMT -5
i made front shackles out of 1/4 flat stock 1.5 inches wide for my 91 k5 and i drove it up and down the road on the weekends for maybe a month. they are already warped a little bit. its your call. ive bought aftermarket shackles from toytec and from tuff country and both of those sets had crossbars.
|
|
|
|
Post by rockcrawlintoy on Jan 28, 2008 19:22:08 GMT -5
my rear shackles are 7.5 inches eye to eye made out of 2x1/2 flat bar no connector in the middle and its been workin great
|
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on Jan 28, 2008 23:00:35 GMT -5
My front shackles are made 1/2" stock and are 9" center hole to center hole. They did wobble some and putting the connection bar between them stopped it. Maybe making them out of some thicker stock like 5/8" might have done it too, but I already had them made and didn't feel like making them again.
The shackle from All Pro aren't that much longer then stock one. I have gotten them too. This beening why I mentioned that you could get away without the connection bar on shorter one.
As far as using 1/4" stock for shackles I would never do, even with a connection bar. I'd never use anything less then 3/8".
|
|
[/glow]