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Post by micahturner on Apr 9, 2008 20:53:30 GMT -5
Is it possible to do a SAS with a non-Toyota axle? If so are there any crazy mods I'd have to do to make it work? I'm having difficulties finding a Toyota axle in my area so I'm trying to find alternatives. Thanks guys.
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Post by micahturner on Apr 9, 2008 21:00:42 GMT -5
Just some additional info I have a 94 Toyota x-cab, v-6, 5 speed.
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Post by fourwd1 on Apr 9, 2008 21:06:17 GMT -5
Sure, if you have the fab skills, tools, time, money etc you can swap anything into anything. But for a 95 an older (pre-Taco) truck a Toy solid axle is easiest. If you have a 96+ a Dana 44 from an older Jeep works best.
Of course there are a lot of custom built axles out there that will work. Diamond Axles come to mind.
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Post by Sean on Apr 9, 2008 21:09:30 GMT -5
Of course. You could use almost any front axle. Most common are the Dana 44 and Dana 60 though. I see no real advantage in swapping in a 44 over a toy axle. You have to cut it or match the extra width in the rear. You arent gaining in strength except for the ring and pinion. A 60 on the other hand has the same mounting issues but is a huge gain in strength and is pretty much universally accepted as the king of off road front axles.
Snorkleman did a SAS with a 44, he could shine some light on what it takes to get it under your truck should you choose to go that route. But there are still lots of toy axles out there to be had. The SAS couldnt be simplier with the Toyota axle. Mine took about 12 hours total. Now i bet i could do it in less then 8. Its cookie cutter vs custom fab.
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Post by rockcrawlintoy on Apr 10, 2008 0:50:59 GMT -5
i have a 44 and love it. the width thing isnt a big deal if u get a waggy axle they are a lil wider but not enough to matter. as far as the strength they are comparable but the 44 has a few advantaged i feel. the housing is stronger, the ring gear is stronger, the steering arms don't come loose like toyotas and also they have open knuckles so if you break an axle u can just unlock the hub and you are good to go.
I did my 44 using a fullwidth axle narrowed 4 inches on the long side. this was pretty easy and only took about 40 minutes. my width is 63.5 inches and is very stable without the use of spacers in the front which cause the steering to be a little harder. my swap took a lil longer since it was all custom even with a toy axle it would have taken a long time since there was only one kit at the time and it was over 2500. oh yeah if i could go back and do it again i would use a full width axle or a 60 so i only had to do it once.
DRew
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Post by bowshtr on Apr 10, 2008 10:19:59 GMT -5
I am runnin a D44 as well but full width along with spacers. I cant remember what my WMS is but outside tire to tire im 92". The swap was cake, SKY's Offroad makes spring hangers and shackle kits to mount chevy axles. To tell you the truth i would have rather of built a D60 for the front. I broke my D44 a while back and if someone above me wouldnt be so lazy and send my some shafts id be runnin rampid
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Post by DeadlyPeace on Apr 10, 2008 11:26:18 GMT -5
I run a stock Toy axle on my DD and full length Chevy D44 on my caged rig. I like both of them and have no problem with either of them. The D44 is definately stronger and more stable cuz of the width. I would like to up grade it to a D60 like the rear, but could find one at the time.
Of course how much strength and width you need really all depends on what you use or plan to use your truck for.
Here's a link to Snorkleman's write-up on the D44 SAS.
Here's another write-up from 4x4wire
A couple good front custom axles to check out. Spidertrax Diamond Axles 4wheelparts (full Jeep D44 axles - will have to modify the mounts) Ballistic Fabrication (great D44 and D60 parts)
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Post by micahturner on Apr 12, 2008 13:58:30 GMT -5
Thanks for the input guys. I think I'm going to go with a Dana 44. I guess my next questions would be what Chevy truck would make the best donor and what would I have to get for steering. I plan on keeping my Toyota axle in the rear. Is that going to be an issue?
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Post by micahturner on Apr 12, 2008 19:09:23 GMT -5
I found a D44 out of a 1/2 ton 75 Chevy 4x4. It was a full time 4WD so am I going to have a problem with the hubs and most importantly, is this axle going to work?
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Post by rockcrawlintoy on Apr 12, 2008 22:42:15 GMT -5
axle will work will be 10 inches wider than the rear. as for the hubs you should be able to get some locking ones that will drop in.
Drew
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Post by micahturner on Apr 14, 2008 10:29:50 GMT -5
My buddy that's going to be helping me with the swap and welding talked me out of the Dana 44. He said that it would be better to go with a j**p axle, like a Dana 30 because of the wheel base. He said something about having to "clock" the t-case. Has anyone ever heard of this term and would it work?
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Post by rockcrawlintoy on Apr 14, 2008 11:43:09 GMT -5
your friends dumb. whats wheelbase got to do with anything. now maybe find a 80s and older jeep axles which would be a dana 44 so it isnt as wide. and without an adapter you cant clock the t case
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Post by micahturner on Apr 14, 2008 14:50:41 GMT -5
So will the 1980's j**p axle work without t-case mods or anything else extreme? I don't want to clock the t-case I just don't want this to look crazy. With a 10 in difference between the front and rear axle lengths I'm afraid it will. I want to keep my toyota rear axle to curb costs.
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Post by rockcrawlintoy on Apr 14, 2008 17:17:40 GMT -5
i mean 1980 and older. the axle will be around 61 inches wider while the stock toy axle in the rear of your truck is 58. it will be perfect.
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Post by Sean on Apr 14, 2008 18:59:29 GMT -5
Cjs dont run a 44 up front. You need a front out of a older cherrokee or a scout.
Run a dana 30? Thats idiocy. The stock toy front is worlds stronger. I can understand a 44 but a 30? Your friend must not wheel.
Clocking the t-case. Pretty much a jeep thing. With the older jeeps with the Dana 300 this is a popular mod to gain enough clearnance to run a belly pan between the frame rails. You dont need to do this mod to run any specific axle or lift. In fact doing it will make your driveline angles more severe which can cause premature failure of u-joints. It has its place but its not something you have to concern yourself with.
As far as being 10" wider in the front looking bad, well yeah. It will look absolutely gash. The simple answer is swapping to a full size rear to match. 14 bolt years are dime a dozen and cheap like cheap. If you want to keep your original toy axle in the rear i strong suggest you put one in the front. Or like Rockcrawlin is telling you get an old jeep cherokee/j-10/chief/wagoneer axle. Ten years ago you could find them laying around everywhere and get them almost free. The whole trucks were selling for just a few hundred bucks. There are still lots around.
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Post by micahturner on Apr 14, 2008 19:15:18 GMT -5
You guys have given me a ton of info and I appreciate it. I'm going to look for a j**p axle from a 1980 or older while at the same time keeping an eye out for a Toyota front. I'm glad to hear that I don't need to clock the t-case to use the j**p axles. Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
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Post by rockcrawlintoy on Apr 14, 2008 19:52:45 GMT -5
look at the jeep waggoneers. for a 44
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rsdan
Full Member
Posts: 116
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Post by rsdan on Apr 14, 2008 21:19:26 GMT -5
Yeah cj's didn't have a 44 in the front. Scout axles work nicely as well as wagoneer axles, personally I'd go with chevy Dana 44's front and rear. It would give you a wide base and look pretty cool. Also it would be 6-lug
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Post by micahturner on Apr 15, 2008 20:21:50 GMT -5
More to the epic axle swap. I found older front and rear axles out of a Toyota Landcrusier. Will these axles work??
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