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Post by BurntOrngeLonghorn on Apr 10, 2006 14:12:47 GMT -5
I'm baffeled...
for a while my check engine light was on and it was telling me it was the o2 sensor after the cat...i tested it and it was bad, so i replaced it with another o2 sensor from the dealer and disconnected the battery so everything could reset....unsuccessful in getting the check engine light to go off...
...i cleaned my MAF sensor and that infact turned the check engine light off, but did not fix the problem...
...when i first start the truck it idles real rough and acts like it's wanting to die...i'll sit there for a little bit with my foot on the gas trying to warm it up, when i start driving, as soon as i give it gas it stutters on me...and this isn't a little stutter, this is a big stutter, like the stutter that wants to give you whip lash...once i finally get it going everything is fine, when it gets up to running temperature...it's fine....
i have no idea what's wrong....any of ya'll have a nack on what it could be??
Chad
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Post by Hoodlum on Apr 11, 2006 8:03:16 GMT -5
Possibly a idle control valve.
Try pulling the EFI fuse from the fuse block in the engine compartment leave it out for at least 45 seconds put it back in and start it up when the check engine light comes on then put on the scanner. let us know.
Oh how many miles on it? is it the 2.7 or 3.4?
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Post by BurntOrngeLonghorn on Apr 11, 2006 12:32:30 GMT -5
The truck is a 3.4L with about 151,000 miles on it.
Now that you say something about a year ago i was driving home and my truck would not idle, as soon as i would push in the clutch it would die, so I had to do some pretty tricky foot work to get home but I unplugged it drove around and then plugged it back in and it's worked fine....or so i thought....i was thinking my truck wasn't getting enough of one of the three items listed in the topic.
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Post by Hoodlum on Apr 11, 2006 15:48:39 GMT -5
OK with 150k have you replaced the fuel filter? When did you last do plugs/wires pcv ect.?
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Post by BurntOrngeLonghorn on Apr 11, 2006 16:39:06 GMT -5
I've replaced the fuel filter probably 7 thousand miles ago, i have a new one to put in. I did the plugs and wires about 20 or 30k ago with wires from the dealer and NGK plugs. I cleaned my K&N air filter, and ran some injector cleaner through. The only thing i have not replaced or cleaned is the pcv.
The thing that gets me how it's only when it's cold...when it's at running temp. it runs perfectly.
Chad
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Post by Hoodlum on Apr 12, 2006 9:25:01 GMT -5
that's why I'm leaning towards the idle control valve. When it's cold it's stuck but when the engine heats up it loosens up and functions. This is just a thought. Replace the pcv anyway I don't think it will fix your problem but def needs to be.
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Post by BurntOrngeLonghorn on Apr 12, 2006 12:40:24 GMT -5
So i did a google search for "Idle Control Valve Toyota" and found this very interesting article from Advance Auto-Parts...it sounds like you're right on the money hoodlum. It's for a 4 cylinder but i'm betting that it couldn't be that much different for the V-6 "Here's the symptom: When you start your mid-'90s or newer Toyota 4-cylinder car, the engine starts okay, but the idle speed is extremely low. You might even have to keep your foot on the accelerator pedal for a minute or so, just to keep it from stalling. The check engine M.I.L. is not illuminated and, when the engine warms up, all seems to be normal, or at least a bit better. Perhaps the idle compensation function—a noticeable idle speed boost when the transmission is put into "D" or "R," or the A/C is turned on—is not spot-on either, but the cold-running problem is getting really irritating. For a relatively quick fix, here's the lowdown on the low-down idle for this common Toyota engine and many others similar to it. " Sweet  |
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Post by Hoodlum on Apr 12, 2006 12:55:59 GMT -5
Here's what's funny to me. My prob is when I start it. It idles at 1200 and when it warms up and it kicks down it idles at 670 to 720 and seems like it wants to stall but doesn't do it.
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Post by Hoodlum on May 10, 2006 10:12:20 GMT -5
My problem turned out to be the TPS. But I still have a vac leak some where. I may have a crack in the intake manifold I'm gonna replace the gaskets and go from there.
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Post by BurntOrngeLonghorn on Jul 31, 2006 15:26:31 GMT -5
Not meaning to pull old threads back to life but I just wanted to follow up on what fixed my problem. Thanks to hoodlum I was able to get ahold of a brand new MAF.
WOW!!! I couldn't believe the increase in throttle response and engine performance overall. I'm thinking that I should have changed the sensor about 40 or 50 thousand miles ago.
If you're running kind of sluggish i would deffinetly suggest checking out replacing this thing...i was impressed.
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