HAYES
New Member
Why are we waiting? LETS GO!!!
Posts: 9
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Post by HAYES on Oct 1, 2005 21:40:26 GMT -5
Doing a sas swap and going with all Pro off-road 5" lift springs up front along with Northwest off-road lift shackles all the way around. Anyone know where i can get 8 in lift springs for the rear? or traction bars that won't limit my flex?
If not i was going to resort to pro comp 4" lift springs and my 4 inch blocks that i already have.
I am just trying to limit the axle wrap with 37" swampers.
Thanks Fella's!
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Post by rockcrawlintoy on Oct 1, 2005 23:04:32 GMT -5
why so much lift u should be able to fir 37s no problem with 5 inches in the rear. i have 37s and chevys and a 2 inch block and clear them just fine and i have a ton of flex
DRew
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Post by fourwd1 on Oct 2, 2005 16:11:12 GMT -5
Get rid of the 4" blocks and you'll reduce axle wrap a heck of a lot.
I run Chevys springs and Chevy 2" lift shackles, no blocks, and fit 36" TSLs fine.
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HAYES
New Member
Why are we waiting? LETS GO!!!
Posts: 9
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Post by HAYES on Oct 2, 2005 23:32:22 GMT -5
Okay, But do the Chevy Springs Have the Same length, Eyelet to Eyelet? And Will they Bolt up to My Front Spring Hanger in the Rear? And What is a Good Chevy Spring to Look for that will offer as much flex as a All Pro Spring? ANd can i find them in 8" applications?
And With the lift springs and no Blocks, YOu don't think i will need to worry About Axle Wrap?
Thanks
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Post by rockcrawlintoy on Oct 2, 2005 23:47:29 GMT -5
chevy springs are 63 inches long. so u will need to weld a new beacket on. it isnt too hard i mean u are doin an SAS right. the new all pro springs are pretty crappy from what i have heard the marlin ones are much better. i dont think u undertsand that u dont need 8 inches of lift to fit 37s thats what we are tryin to say
DRew
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Post by Sean on Oct 3, 2005 2:37:06 GMT -5
It really depends on how heavy the rear is. In an 86 chevys with some extended shackles, 2"blocks or an add aleaf will be fine. My heavy pig(2nd gen 4runner) took 4" blocks with 7" shackles to level to the front with the old school all pro 4"ers.
I dont have axle wrap issues, its much tighter then the old 4 link and flexes like mad. The Chevy springs seem to wrap less though one of my blocks is starting to crumble after a few years of on and off again hard service. This year has been so messed i only hit the trail once though and a bad front ujoint made it a early day.
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Post by fourwd1 on Oct 3, 2005 13:53:58 GMT -5
Okay, But do the Chevy Springs Have the Same length, Eyelet to Eyelet? And Will they Bolt up to My Front Spring Hanger in the Rear? And What is a Good Chevy Spring to Look for that will offer as much flex as a All Pro Spring? ANd can i find them in 8" applications? And With the lift springs and no Blocks, YOu don't think i will need to worry About Axle Wrap? Thanks 63" springs off of the rear of 81-91 Chevy/GMC p/u's are a popular swap because they are cheap and plentiful at junkyards, and being so long they flex well. It requires new mounts front and rear. You typically get ~3" of lift out of them, most of which comes from moving the front mount 11" forward, and therefore lower, on the frame. |
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Post by DrumBum on Oct 3, 2005 22:32:35 GMT -5
is the 81-91 trucks or the 88-98? i thought i read somewhere that it was 88-98's.... i don't know, just checkin
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Post by rockcrawlintoy on Oct 3, 2005 22:35:03 GMT -5
88-98
DRew
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Post by Forgotten on Oct 5, 2005 19:47:51 GMT -5
how hard is it to do, and will the tire still be in about the stock position in the wheelwell? I need to crank my torsion bars, and just hate to add an add a leaf on top of a block, I can weld pretty decently, and besides my truck rides like a tank as is.
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YOTADICK
Full Member
Dem' hogs is gettin intense, Better back off another ten
Posts: 177
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Post by YOTADICK on Oct 5, 2005 23:54:00 GMT -5
not very hard, but my friend did the welding for me. I don't know how to and tried it and sucked at it, wanted the best for my truck so he did it. The rest is pretty simple. Allpro hanger moves the tires about a 1.5 inches forward, if i am not mistaken. My truck rides a lot rougher now but i think it's the superlift springs in the rear. I still need to do the chevy springs in the back. Along with many other things on my list. Before I did my sas , i went to allprooffroad.com and read all the installation info they had so that I knew what I was getting into
later
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Post by fourwd1 on Oct 6, 2005 17:27:11 GMT -5
how hard is it to do, and will the tire still be in about the stock position in the wheelwell? If you're refering to putting 63" Chevys in the rear, since you are welding in new hangers you can locate the axle where you want. Most people (and the instructions to do it) locate it in the stock (centered) position. |
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Post by Sean on Oct 10, 2005 16:32:17 GMT -5
how hard is it to do, and will the tire still be in about the stock position in the wheelwell? If you're refering to putting 63" Chevys in the rear, since you are welding in new hangers you can locate the axle where you want. Most people (and the instructions to do it) locate it in the stock (centered) position. I moved mine two inches back. With the axle swap that took me from a 104"wheel base to 108" which for me has worked out about perfect. Now if i could just do something about the fat ass hanging behind the rears i would be in business. |
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Post by Sean on Oct 10, 2005 16:34:56 GMT -5
Moving it back two inches was the what i wanted, but it was also the limitation of the frame with such a long spring, as the rear hanger are on the very back of the frame with no more room to go back farther. Its probably different with different trucks though, 4runner, ext cab ect.
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Post by Sean on Oct 10, 2005 16:41:36 GMT -5
This is really and easy swap. I made my front hangers out of 3.5/1/4" box tube. For the rear i used some toyota rear hangers i got at the wrecker as the 4runner was originally coil over. Set it up, tack every thing in place and set it down. Figure out what size blocks you need, make sure everything is straight and the tire is sitting where you want it in the wheel well then take it apart, weld everything in place and put it back together with the blocks in it and set up your shocks. We used a two by two peice of box tube as a frame stiffener/shock mount just mounted above the axle between the frame rails.
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Post by mudwiser316 on Oct 12, 2005 1:08:53 GMT -5
I MUST PIPE IN FOR A MINUTE. I GOT A WILD HAIR UP MY BUTT A LITTLE WHILE BACK AND PUT CHEVY SPRINGS ON MY 85 TRUCK. THE THING WAS I MOUNTED THEM TO THE STOCK HANGERS. I HAD THE SPRINGS RE ARCHED WHICH GAVE MY TRUCK ABOUT 15 PLUS INCHES IN THE FRONT AND ABOUT 12 PLUS INCHES IN THE REAR. LETS JUST SAY I CLEARED 44'S. I HAD ABOUT 4INCHES OF CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE TIRE AND THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME ON THE FRONT END. IF YOU TAKE THE TIME TO FIGURE OUT HOW MUCH ARCH YOU NEED TO PUT ON THE CHEVY SPRINGS YOU CAN GET YOUR 8 INCHES OF LIFT. YOU WILL JUST NEED TO MOVE THE HANGERS AROUND A LITTLE TO CENTER YOUR AXLE. THIS SHOULD NOT BE TOO HARD BEING YOUR DOING AN SAS. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET SOME GOOD FLEX OUT OF THE SPRINGS EVEN AFTER YOU RE ARCH THEM.
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