New guy lookin for some advice

[DeadlyPeace]

Josh, the Rancho's can be bought in different lengths. It all depends on what your ride height is. This is the distance between the two shock mounts. If you go to a 4x4 parts or repair shop they can get you the right size shock for you. Also Rancho was just one of the good shocks out there. Check into Skyjackers, Bilstein, Rubicon Express, and more. Edelbrock, Pro Comp and Tuff Country are suppose to real good, but I’ve never used them. If you want flexibility then you might want to think about going with Bilstein 5150 shocks www.aor4x4.com/bilstein.htm. They are good quality and make for a smooth ride with some travel length to them (about 14.53 inches).

As for leaf springs….if you just want a couple inches then you might have problems finding some. 4” lift is about the smallest I’ve seen out there. Of course you could but a set and take a leaf or two out of them. This will make the lift less and make them more flexible.

Here's a couple places to get springs:
www.rubiconexpress.com
www.aor.com
www.allprooffroad.com

[glow=red,4,300]G ;D8-)D LUCK and always, HAPPY WHEELIN"[/glow]

[DeadlyPeace]

L8sho, Your're right about the fact that I haven't been through a lot of mud, and I don't recall ever saying I did. I was just saying that one or two feet of mud (which is about the most I've found here in Cali.) isn't considered enough to worry about to need a winch. Also when you learn to read I agreed that the lockers is a good thing for him to start with.

[L8sho2003]

Sorry deadlypeace, I was off on my statement, I should have read closer. I have apologized through private messaging, but I thought it was worthy of a public flogging. Anyway josh, now back to your truck...........

[DesertRat]

Since it seems you really want a lift first (and I wont get into what you should do first) don't forget tires. If you get your lift, your going to look odd with the stock tires on it. You need an aggressive tread tire for the mud, but that means a poorer street ride. I'd go for an all terrain, but I don't go in the mud. If money is tight, and I imagine it really is, you may want to wait until you can afford both the lift and the tires. Of course, with a big lift and big tires, you need gearing. The price just goes up and up doesn't it? I would consider doing the lift in stages, maybe a suspension for a few inches with good size tires. A few other mods like a locker or whatever, then the body lift, bigger tires, and gears. In the end there is no realy cheap way to do it. I wish there was too ;D

[DeadlyPeace]

As DesertRat pointed out....a more aggressive tread is needed for the mud which will cus a worse ride on the road. Plus most aggressive treads start to make a howling sound as you get up in speed. And as I also mentioned before.....this can be hot on the wallet.

Anyhow a go idea (when you can) is to get two sets of tires and rims. One for the street and one for wheelin'. I got a cheap pair of rims from a wrecking yard to put my 38's on for wheelin' (no need to ruin a good set of rims). Then I run my 35's on the nice rims for the street for better forward momentum and nicer road feel. I could up grade my gearing to 5.71 (again), but wheelin' and 5.71 gears don't get along. The gear are too thin and will become just chunks of metal in the diff.

You won't need to worry about regearing until you go to 33's. You can still run them with the stock gears, but you'll start to go trough your clutch a little faster and driving slower.

Doing the lift in stages is a good idea. Just remember....PRICE....so when do the suspension lift you get the size lift springs you want in the end so you don't have to do it again.

[DeadlyPeace]

L8sho2003 said:

Sorry deadlypeace, I was off on my statement, I should have read closer. I have apologized through private messaging, but I thought it was worthy of a public flogging. Anyway josh, now back to your truck...........

No flogging required. It happens to the best of us.

[JOSH]

Thanks a lot for everyones replys...
I think that the biggest tire i would go with would be a 33, how much lift would that require? and would i need any other mods with that amount of lift. I will probably use larger leafs and a body lift if needed to get the lift i want.
Thanks again!

[DeadlyPeace]

For a 85 with 33" tires you would need at least a 3" lift. I said before trying to find a spring under a 4" lift can be some times hard to find you could try www.rubiconexpress.com or www.downeyoff-road.com/ I know they have 2.5" lift spring, and Rubicon Express also has 1.5", but I do not know how flexible they any of them are. They're both know for their parts those and have good service management. So you could give them a call to ask them about the spring flexibility. If you want to save a few bucks and know someone or know how to mig weld, then you could try this set up.

Used 63" 1988-1998 Chevy 1/2 ton springs - $75-$100 at a boneyard.
It does not matter if they are from a 2WD or 4WD. The 2WD have 3 leaves
plus a overload leaf. The 4WD have 4 leaves plus a overload leaf. The 2WD are the
most desirable because they are softer with only 3 main leaves and are good on a pickup. You can use the 4WD but you will have to pull out one leaf. Don't get me wrong the 4 leaves will work but most guys run 3 plus overload leaf. Some just run only three leaves. Also some people run add-a-leafs too. Just depends on what you want to achieve.


Now to mount them you must get a new front spring hanger and weld it on the flat part of the frame forward of the stock spring hanger.

For the rear shackle hanger, you can either go with a double shackle set-up (very popular) or weld on a new hanger back about 4 inches from stock.

You can't use the Chevy front hangers, but I feel they are shaped too oddly to work. :PBetter if you either buy Jeep CJ spring hangers - $30-$40 (some say they hang kinda low) or make your own out of 3.5"x3.5"x 1/4"

If you should have 48" long stock springs, so you'll need to mount the new spring hangers 11" forward of the stock spring hanger center hole to center hole. This will position the axle in stock location. Or you can drop a plumb line from the frame down to the center pin of your stock springs. Leave it there. Take off stock springs and line up Chevy’s.

NOTE:The Chevy springs are 2-1/2" wide and Toyota is about 2-1/4" wide. Please note on the Chevy's that the sleeve in the bushings at both ends of the spring is 3" wide. That’s why you must use 3 1/2" box tube (1/4" or 3/16" wall) for the front hanger (3" on the internal width).

You will get about 2-3" of lift. But the springs are very soft, so most people end up using some lift blocks or add-a-leafs as well.

The ride is excellent ;Don the street and even better off road. LOTS-O-FLEX and they ride like a Cadillac! Well compared to shock spring. There is such a big difference between these and stock springs that it's unbelievable.

You will definitely want longer shocks to take advantage of all that new travel you gained. Rancho 5012 or 9012's will run you about $40 each. Bilstein 5100 or 5150 series are great shocks for a bit more price - $99 each.

That should about cover it.

This can be done later down the road to let the wallet rest.
Another mod that would be good to have, to go with this to have power those 33" tire forward would be some 4.88 gears for the diff. Or beter yet 5.29 gears. They'll move them 33's like they weren't even there and you can still push your rig 100+ MPH down the freeway (with a stock engine). Either one will run you about $350 each.

Lockers will also be good to add - $150-$350+ depending on what type you want to get.

8-)Working on a more in depth version about the Chevy springs swap which will also enclude other years. So keep your eyes open.

[JOSH]

Thanks so much guys you have been an invaluable souce of information