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Post by miketlane on Dec 24, 2007 21:08:38 GMT -5
I just finished converting it and have not wheeled it yet and had some questions. I'm running a new NWOR 6in lift heavy duty,3in body, a built 302 350-400hp, stage2 C4auto and 39.5 swamper's. I'm sure i need to do some fender trimming and i don't think there is much flex for that lift kit. I'm told that if i run a shackle and or remove leafs i will brake them with that HP. I'm not into REAL rock crawling i just like mud and nasty roads/trails. also i keep getting told Toyota diffs wont hold up. i plan to do a true-track up front and Detroit locker in back but not sure on what ratio to run, thinking 5:29. is there anyone here with a 302 toy or similar setup? any suggestions or tips are welcome! the club i ran with before the build as retired and dispersed and now looking for a group in the Olympia-Brenton WA area. there was one group i found but several of them looked at my toy and asked "DUDE! ARE YOU GOING TO TAKE IT OUT AND BEAT ON IT!" id prefer to go with a group that wont destroy my rig or hurt someone. dents happen and i wont cry about it but i wont intentionally beat on it. I'm new here and thanks for any input
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Post by fourwd1 on Dec 24, 2007 23:32:21 GMT -5
Either the HP or the 39" tires alone will lead to broken birfs pretty quick, with both I'd pick up a set of 30 spline Longs. Even they might not last too long with a heavy foot. If so, an axle swap could be in your future.
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Post by mudwiser316 on Dec 25, 2007 2:15:41 GMT -5
If you wanted flex than NWOR 6'' was not the lift to get!!! As for the tires fitting they should fit! you might rub a little in a turn if you go full lock. I've had NWOR 6'' on my 4runner for about 7 yrs. I had a set of 38/11/15 boggers on for awhile with no rub but these things are skinny compared to the 39.5's. if it was me i would go with 5:29's. with that HP I would get a set of Long's. you might think about getting Hy-steer too! the s-links on the steering set is a week link with that big of a tire! just my $.02! later!
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rsdan
Full Member
Posts: 116
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Post by rsdan on Dec 25, 2007 18:21:42 GMT -5
eww, ford 302! Just kidding, that's pretty sweet but you are definatly going to need to upgrade you axles (Dana 44's would be sweet) There was a write-up in 4x4 Garage on how to build a Dana 44 so it won't be as liable to break. If you happen to have a ton of cash lying around you could go with Dana 60's
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Post by miketlane on Dec 26, 2007 0:57:09 GMT -5
I just finished converting it and have not wheeled it yet and had some questions. I'm running a new NWOR 6in lift heavy duty,3in body, a built 302 350-400hp, stage2 C4auto and 39.5 swamper's. I'm sure i need to do some fender trimming and i don't think there is much flex for that lift kit. I'm told that if i run a shackle and or remove leafs i will brake them with that HP. I'm not into REAL rock crawling i just like mud and nasty roads/trails. also i keep getting told Toyota diffs wont hold up. i plan to do a true-track up front and Detroit locker in back but not sure on what ratio to run, thinking 5:29. is there anyone here with a 302 toy or similar setup? any suggestions or tips are welcome! the club i ran with before the build as retired and dispersed and now looking for a group in the Olympia-Brenton WA area. there was one group i found but several of them looked at my toy and asked "DUDE! ARE YOU GOING TO TAKE IT OUT AND BEAT ON IT!" id prefer to go with a group that wont destroy my rig or hurt someone. dents happen and i wont cry about it but i wont intentionally beat on it. I'm new here and thanks for any input -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK cool thanks for the input so far i have been looking into the long fields, 44,60 swap and hybrid toy diff and 60 knuckle. also i was looking it to the benefits and reasons for swapping. i found that the main problem is with the birfields and not so much the diff. the Dayna 44 is smaller then the toy and i would not be able to run 5:29s and i would think smaller is weaker. i will be running a Detroit carer and those are way stronger then stock Toyota but every thing seems to be the birfelds are the issue. marlin crawler has a birfield eliminator with a u joint under 500.there is a birfield thats criotreated here in wa for under 200 and a killer warentee. i think i like that out of all the options. or the elemenator cuz if i blow the u joint its a cheap pain in the ass to fix but if i blow a long-field it would be expensive and nearly total replacement. it seems to be a dig debate on what is better on line and expect to brake something everything so ill wait until i brake it and decide from there LOL. thanks i have recived some good info and new ideas. ill post a pic'soon
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Post by speedy on Dec 27, 2007 17:52:29 GMT -5
I would be curious to know more about the swap. How hard was it, how much did you spend? What kind of Ford did you get the engine out of? I am looking to do a 302 swap on my 83, however I would like to stay with a standard transmission. I don't plan on building up the v-8 because I don't particularly want to swap axles right away, and with 4.7 transfer gears I won't need even 250hp to keep me happy. I am already running a beefed up front axle with the 30 spline longfields, hub gears, knuckle reinforcement, armor etc.. so I am not concerned beyond possibly blowing a ring and pinion. From what I understand, 8" Toy axles are as good if not better than Dana 44's, with 30 spline Longfields, Bobby says it's better than a Dana 60 in some aspects.
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Post by miketlane on Dec 28, 2007 1:45:43 GMT -5
I just finished converting it and have not wheeled it yet and had some questions. I'm running a new NWOR 6in lift heavy duty,3in body, a built 302 350-400hp, stage2 C4auto and 39.5 swamper's. I'm sure i need to do some fender trimming and i don't think there is much flex for that lift kit. I'm told that if i run a shackle and or remove leafs i will brake them with that HP. I'm not into REAL rock crawling i just like mud and nasty roads/trails. also i keep getting told Toyota diffs wont hold up. i plan to do a true-track up front and Detroit locker in back but not sure on what ratio to run, thinking 5:29. is there anyone here with a 302 toy or similar setup? any suggestions or tips are welcome! the club i ran with before the build as retired and dispersed and now looking for a group in the Olympia-Brenton WA area. there was one group i found but several of them looked at my toy and asked "DUDE! ARE YOU GOING TO TAKE IT OUT AND BEAT ON IT!" id prefer to go with a group that wont destroy my rig or hurt someone. dents happen and i wont cry about it but i wont intentionally beat on it. I'm new here and thanks for any input -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK cool thanks for the input so far i have been looking into the long fields, 44,60 swap and hybrid toy diff and 60 knuckle. also i was looking it to the benefits and reasons for swapping. i found that the main problem is with the birfields and not so much the diff. the Dayna 44 is smaller then the toy and i would not be able to run 5:29s and i would think smaller is weaker. i will be running a Detroit carer and those are way stronger then stock Toyota but every thing seems to be the birfelds are the issue. marlin crawler has a birfield eliminator with a u joint under 500.there is a birfield thats criotreated here in wa for under 200 and a killer warentee. i think i like that out of all the options. or the elemenator cuz if i blow the u joint its a cheap pain in the ass to fix but if i blow a long-field it would be expensive and nearly total replacement. it seems to be a dig debate on what is better on line and expect to brake something everything so ill wait until i brake it and decide from there LOL. thanks i have recived some good info and new ideas. ill post a pic'soon --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ok i have been looking at allot of old posts and taking in all the advise i have so far. so my plan is to use bobby longs cryo birfield,529s but ill spend the extra for the cryo treated ones, put the radiator in the grill and 4x4labs Xover high steer kit. i beter get atarted. WHEN... LOL i brake somthing ill post it so i can recive the i told you so's. any bets on what goes first LOL?
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Post by Shibby24 on Dec 29, 2007 21:24:24 GMT -5
Ring and pinion and u-joints what my buddy blows up in his v8 toy. He just throws stock thirds in it and calls it good. Think he alternates between welded and spool, depending on how fast he needs it back up.
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Post by miketlane on Dec 30, 2007 1:56:36 GMT -5
Ring and pinion and u-joints what my buddy blows up in his v8 toy. He just throws stock thirds in it and calls it good. Think he alternates between welded and spool, depending on how fast he needs it back up.----------------------- ----------------------------------------------------- I'm hoping that the cryo-treated ring and pinion will hold up. i can live with a u joint poping. there cheap and I'm OK with them as the weak link. i did hear of a ford 9in conversion for the front! i think that would be cool!. front and back 9s HAHA may cost an arm and leg though
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