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Post by stev0454 on Apr 30, 2007 18:07:34 GMT -5
I have a 2002 tacoma v6 4x4 with a 3in body and 3 in suspension running 33's and i noticed a huge power decrease when i switched from the stock tires i think they were 30's. I only have about a 10 mile commute to work and i don't drive around to much. I was thinking about regearing but heard it was really expensive. but after looking i found a gearset on allprooffroad for about 150$ am imissing somthing or is that all it cost? i think thats for the hi pinion reverse cut but they also have yukon but the price is not listed. its for the 5.29 gears
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Post by live4yotas on May 1, 2007 19:09:09 GMT -5
Ok well the money comes in from getting some one to install the gear sets and dail them in. You will need both front and rear ring and pinions and master install kits for both is usually preferred. I had my tacoma done with 5.29 Yukon gears and it ran me right at $1,200 dollars. But with 33's 4.88's would be fine for you with a V6. With 5.29's you will be reving a lil high at highway speeds.
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Post by stev0454 on May 1, 2007 19:45:17 GMT -5
well i don't drive highway much at all and it can be avoided so thats not a bid deal. i have an ifs up front so i would change the gears in the transfer case for upfront
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Post by fourwd1 on May 2, 2007 10:56:45 GMT -5
... i have an ifs up front so i would change the gears in the transfer case for upfront Huh ? ? 1) You have to change the differential gears front and rear. B) You can only change transfer case gears in the old gear driven cases.
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Post by stev0454 on Jul 30, 2007 19:00:21 GMT -5
sorry i'm so late responding to this i misworded that but looking at gears on all pro and they don't specify if they are for the rear or the front. or i don't know what i'm looking at. I see gears for about $150 is that all i need?? or is that just the rear end please someone fill me in here i'm lost. and also what a lil high on highway speeds with 5.29 and 33 are talking 4k rpms at 70?
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Post by fourwd1 on Aug 29, 2007 22:15:03 GMT -5
OK Lost, here's some estimates on regearing both diffs, based on YOU pulling both 3rds and carrying them in (and then reinstalling).
gears - $250 x2 master install kit - $100 x 2 labor - 2-3 hrs each @ $75+ /hr (here in the mid-Atlantic area)
If you have the shop pull and reinstall the 3rds (diffs), add 8 hrs of labor $$ min, + gear oil, etc.
So figure $1200 min.
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hybridtoys
New Member
WWW.HYBRIDTOYS.ORG
Posts: 10
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Post by hybridtoys on Nov 12, 2007 3:20:19 GMT -5
Well I know this is an old link but I’m throwing in my two cents, I am literally doing this as we speak, its nearly done and it was way less than 1200 bucks, if you don’t know anything about Toyotas, i recommend this "give it to some one else" attitude, or just have money to burn then by all means go big. . . But if you have a medium amount of skill you can easily do gears on your toy, in fact i recommend doing it, it can be pretty valuable learning experience, And pretty hard to mess up, its really about keeping things in order. . . . And a ton of paper towels As far as the cost, here in the Pacific Northwest i just paid 402.62$ with next day shipping, for 1997 v6 4runner 5.29's that INCLUDED the install kit, "most Toys" don’t need the TWO 50-85 dollar pinion bearings, "IF its below 100k or so" above that buy new bearings. If you are having some one install the gears in the third-members make sure you plan ahead, it will usually take several days to get them done. Its pretty tough for a newbie to do gears and takes some special tools, Also they really need to be as close to perfect as possible. So, in most cases, I’d recommend you have the local shop do it. I just paid 350$ for both, and a four day wait, for just gears no lockers. we pulled the 3rd members our selves. No special tools required. Just some RTV for the seal, and a 12mm "for the nuts on the actual 3rd member", and 14 mm "for the rear-end meets the axles backing plates" the great thing about Toyota’s is you can leave everything pretty much together you technically don’t even need to take the wheels off. Just drain the fluid, usually a 22mm then unbolt the axles from the rear-end via four 14mm bolts, "the axles WILL slide out enough to drop the third member "EVEN MODELS WITH ABS you don’t need to pull the brake lines, and only some times need to pull the parking brake cable pins on the backing plate, but that takes two seconds. Vwalla your done. The front varies allot but specifically the tacos can be a pain to wedge out from the oil pan and cross member. BUT really there’s only 3 bolts holding it in. . . . So, once you pull the front bolts, "i think they were 19mm's socket and wrench needed", there’s just the rear alen head, i also "think this was a 10mm thick allen" same as the drain plug". Just unscrew the 12mm bolts that hold the lines on the top and with "some manipulation" it comes out pretty easy. The axles are just clipped in and pop out with a long pry bar. Its easiest to unbolt the lower ball joint "NOT the main bolt" the four 14mm bolts that bolt it to the knuckle, then you can just pull the whole assembly away to get the axles out. Vwalla your done with the front. Its really pretty easy and saves allot of cash, just remember be safe and USE good, real, jack stands. Just as a side note this is a good time to put longer breather hose on the front and rear of the diffs to keep water out. Overall its gonna cost 8 with rtv and gear lube. go big and go broke!?!? or do it yourself and learn a little somethin??
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