|
|
Post by micahturner on May 20, 2008 20:47:35 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on May 20, 2008 23:50:57 GMT -5
Looks good. any plan for bigger tires?
For the square tubing try a trailer or farm equipment manufacturer, or any steel supplier.
5125 Bilstein shocks are good at $75 each. Or Skyjacker are decent for around $40each.
As for the e-brake I removed it all from the axle and installed a driveline e-brake from All Pro.
|
|
|
|
Post by 94cnytoy on May 21, 2008 16:42:15 GMT -5
Nice truck.
Nicer friend.....
Def go with the Allpro or ? e-brake setup.
( on the driveshaft flange at the t-case )
Extremely simple design and better than stock drum e-brakes.
Old j**ps used this same concept but with a drum brake.
Why the Sq front driveshaft???
If you ever need 4wd at a higher speed than 15mph it'll ratter your b*lls loose???
Anyway, your in a world of hurt on the front axle pinion angles.
Best bet is shimming off the leaves, but then your steering could go to hell.
Be carefull and do testing.
Stew
|
|
|
|
Post by micahturner on May 21, 2008 19:43:01 GMT -5
Thanks for the info on the transfer case e-brake. For now I'm going to strip all the e-brake crap out and leave it as is. I will be buying shocks and welding the mounts for those this weekend. As for the front driveshaft, I could go with a Chevy driveshaft and buy u-joints to make it work. Is there a way to balance a square driveshaft? For the pinion angle I'm going to buy shims and make it work. I've noticed that my acceleration has gotten slower. Is there any way to fix that?
|
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on May 21, 2008 23:49:11 GMT -5
On my DD I have a square DS and have got up to 45-50mph before getting any vibration from it. Just need to make sure you make it real straight. Balancing one I would think would be a waste of time. I rarely ever balance the front one anyhow cuz it's not that often that I go that fast in 4WD. Snow time is about the only time for 4W speeding.
My caged crawler that I have the Chevy D44 in the front of I used the Chevy slip joint and u-joint with a standard round tubing to a Toyota CV joint. Was thinking of doing a square one, but the Chevy slip joint was like 12"+.
On your acceleration did you just install the axles when you noticed it being slower? Depending on the gears that are in them could cause it to move slower.
|
|
|
|
Post by micahturner on May 22, 2008 0:11:53 GMT -5
Yep, with IFS I had alot of get up and go. Not so much with the new axles. If it will solve my problem, what gears should I go to? I think my gas mileage is suffering too. As for the driveshafts, I'm going squared up front after I shim the axle.
|
|
|
|
Post by orangeyota on May 22, 2008 13:57:23 GMT -5
The gears depend on what size tire your going to run and what motor you have.
4.88 33" 5.29 35" 6.17 36"+
|
|
|
|
Post by micahturner on May 22, 2008 19:54:32 GMT -5
I've got 33in tires and a 3.0 V-6 engine. What gears should I go to to get my acceleration back? Also, when I'm measuring for shocks I'm assuming the way to do it measure from mount to mount, correct?
Hey Deadly, what driveshafts are using in the rear of your DD? I've got my Toyota axle in the rear but I have little extention. What do you suggest.
Thanks again guys
|
|
|
|
Post by 94cnytoy on May 23, 2008 7:01:56 GMT -5
"when I'm measuring for shocks I'm assuming the way to do it measure from mount to mount, correct?"
That's only one of the critical measurents.
The main things you need to know are the longest and shortest lengths the shock would travel. ( the lengths between the shock mounts shortest and furthest )
( full compression of the axle vs full extention )
This will determine the shock body length ( and stroke length )
Vehicle weight is important too ( sprung and unsprung ) as this determines the weight the shock is expected to control.
The shock travel ( Ie: 24'' stroke ) can also be used to determine the shock location. This is more complex though because the closer the shock is mounted inboard, the more leverage is applied from the axle/chassis. ( shock has to do more work under higher forces ).
You can do this in two easy ways.
Get a full size pickup truck shock ( quality brand ) and locate it in different are's to see what works best, or get a high end aftermarket off road performance shock and do the same thing ( but an adjustable shock( valving )).
Either way, you will have to experiment to see what works.
Ultimately, you need the shock to control body/chassis movement, without limiting the axle travel. ( don't let the shocks limit the axle movement use a limiting strap if you have to ( or peice of chain ))
Good luck, I'm sure some others here can help you hella more....
Stew
|
|
|
|
Post by micahturner on May 24, 2008 9:18:05 GMT -5
I went with pro comp ES9000. 4Wheel Parts measured me up and got everything I needed. Very nice.
|
|
|
|
Post by 94cnytoy on May 25, 2008 15:23:29 GMT -5
Did they check your flexed dimensions???
I only ask because you can tear off your shock mounts and/or kill a shock easily if its too long or too short.
9000's are nice though, get the benefit of controlling highway manors......click of a button....
Stew
|
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on May 25, 2008 21:37:23 GMT -5
I've got 33in tires and a 3.0 V-6 engine. What gears should I go to to get my acceleration back? Also, when I'm measuring for shocks I'm assuming the way to do it measure from mount to mount, correct? Hey Deadly, what driveshafts are using in the rear of your DD? I've got my Toyota axle in the rear but I have little extention. What do you suggest.
As for my rear DS on my DD I have a Toyota DS cuz it still has Toyota axles underneath it.
|
|
|
|
Post by orangeyota on May 25, 2008 21:51:09 GMT -5
i would go with 4.88 gears since you have the v6 and 33's. i think most the chevy axles in that time were geard like 3.73
|
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on May 26, 2008 3:01:20 GMT -5
Not sure about Chevy having a 3.73, but I know they had a 3.83.
|
|
|
|
Post by micahturner on May 27, 2008 20:48:51 GMT -5
Both axles are Chevy, off the same truck with the same gearing. I've decieded to change to 4:88 gearing. Just waiting for more cash. I've spent plenty here lately. As for the shocks I took it up a ramp to get the needed measurements so I'm straight there. The only thing I'm hurting on is my front pinion angle. Check out this website and tell me if you guys think this will solve my problem: www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/ |
|
|
|
Post by speedy on May 28, 2008 0:28:07 GMT -5
If the angle isn't that far off go for it. However if it is really bad, your best bet is to turn the axle tubes. I imagine that would be alot easier with those axles than it is with a toyota axle, I had to cut the tubes, turn them, then reweld them. I am not sure but I think your axles tubes are pressed into the center section. If done with the right amount of caution it is a permanent fix to the problem. I clearanced my CV on top of the axle cut and turn. Looks like your flex has the potential to be pretty sick! Good luck!
|
|
|
|
Post by DeadlyPeace on May 28, 2008 12:01:38 GMT -5
Hey Deadly, what driveshafts are using in the rear of your DD? I've got my Toyota axle in the rear but I have little extention. What do you suggest. Both axles are Chevy, off the same truck with the same gearing.  ?
If you have the Chevy axle in the rear then just do the same as the front. Use the stock Toyota DS with the Chevy flange on the end. As for having little extension (sorry forgot to answer about that before) I'm guessing you mean in the slip joint. You don't need much in the rear cuz the 3rd member is in the center so it won't move much. Just leave yourself about 1 1/2" for down travel .
I agree with Speedy except I would try shim wedges first before cutting the axle. |
|
|
|
Post by micahturner on May 28, 2008 23:45:57 GMT -5
I've got some shims on order. I'll try those and see how jacked up my steering is. My last resort is cutting the axle tubes as not to take away from the axle's integrity. If I have to I will though. My rear axle has enough slip joint for extention so I'm good there. I've noticed a slight vibration in the rear. I checked out my carrier bearing and there's quite a bit of play so I'll be replacing it. For my front drive shaft there's no way my Toyota DS will reach the yoke. I'm just going to have to make the square DS, which I'm a big fan of.
Speedy, thanks for the props and again, thanks for everyone's help.
|
|
ric
New Member
Posts: 12
|
Post by ric on Oct 1, 2008 23:30:36 GMT -5
very nice,, i like
|
|
[/glow]
?