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Post by hillbilly81 on Aug 15, 2009 17:58:02 GMT -5
1987 22r
at idle my charge light and brake light are flickering, goes away when I bump the RPM's up a bit (or while I'm driving). I'm thinking alternator? low charge at idle? either that or a bad connection but I'll clean those tomorrow and see if it goes away.
if it is a bad alternator I figure I might as well buy one with a higher aperage rating than the current one (as I plan on running a winch and fuel injection soon) any thoughts as where to go to get one? are there any compatable GM based alt's that might be a little less expensive?
thanks for your help!
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Post by DeadlyPeace on Aug 16, 2009 17:20:00 GMT -5
To check your charging system start the truck up and remove the negative battery cable. If it stays running then your system should be fine. So your problem could be either corroded or loose terminals. Check the terminals for cracks too. If your truck stalls out then more then likely it’s your alternator (or actually the voltage regulator which should be internal on yours).
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Post by hillbilly81 on Aug 16, 2009 20:20:19 GMT -5
cant believe I didnt think to remove the neg cable... I've been working 7 12's, I guess its finally starting to catch up.
on that note: It does die when the neg is removed. all terminals are clean, and I have a GM alternator on order (should be here in the morning) its a 105 amp cs135 (?) out of a 1988 oldsmobile firenza 2.0L, with airconditioning. rumor has it the cs alts have a smaller housing and this one puts out the amps I'm looking for. same price as the toyota alt. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Post by Sean on Aug 16, 2009 20:27:06 GMT -5
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Post by hillbilly81 on Aug 16, 2009 22:25:39 GMT -5
nah, it stays on with the headlights...
was kicking around the idea of not turning in the stock alt, paying the core fee, replacing the voltage regulator and keeping it as a spare but the dang voltage regulator is almost as much as the whole altenator!
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Post by hillbilly81 on Aug 17, 2009 22:33:42 GMT -5
ok, I read this through and through: www.toyotaoffroad.com/Articles/Projects/chevy_alt/chevy_alt.htmand it says: " You only need to use S and F/I. On the old round harness that plugged into the old stocker there are 3 wires, one is a constant 12v or signal and you connect that to the "S" wire on the new harness. One wire is noticeably smaller and that runs to your idiot light. Connect that wire to a 12V switched power source (not the wire right next to it!) Then you have a switched 12v source left and you connect that to the F/I wire" so constant 12v wire =S switched 12v wire =f/I idiot light wire goes to some other switched 12v source? |
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