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Post by toyota86 on Nov 7, 2009 16:42:34 GMT -5
I have killed 4 batteries in the last year and the last one that lasted 9 months was an Optima red top battery. I am driving an 1986 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE in it.
What I have found is the battery charge gauge will start to drain, the engine will loose power, and the headlights will dim when the brake emergency light comes on and the battery charge warning light comes on at the same time. This doesn't occur all the time, it is sporadic. I have found it occurs more often when I step on the brake and goes away once I start driving again. I have taken my alternator in and had it tested at my local auto parts store and they said it was fine. Also it seems hard to start like it has no voltage in the battery and I have to have it jumped on some days. I have checked all the fuses and they all look good.
Any ideas? I could really use my 4Runner this winter. Thanks for the help.
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Post by toyota86 on Nov 7, 2009 19:34:39 GMT -5
I tried the idea someone had about disconnecting the negative cable from the battery. When I did the 4runner ran fine until you turn on the head lights, the heater, or roll down a window. It would completely shut off then. Also I notice that when the battery is fully connected and you turn on anything electric in the 4Runner it has a loose of energy and power. The volt meter for the battery charges down too. Thanks for looking at my post.
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Post by Hoodlum on Nov 9, 2009 16:49:15 GMT -5
Check/test relays and the wiring.You may have a frayed wire or something that is drawing current when it shouldn't be. Check all the grounds for a loose bolt or corrosion.I'll check for some more info but this is what I got off the top of my head.
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Post by fourwd1 on Nov 11, 2009 11:56:52 GMT -5
I tried the idea someone had about disconnecting the negative cable from the battery. When I did the 4runner ran fine until you turn on the head lights, the heater, or roll down a window. It would completely shut off then. That indicates the engine was running off of the alternator, but the additional drain of the lights, heater, etc was more than the alternator could handle. The stock alt is 60A and it should be able to handle more than just the engine. That indicates the battery is drawing a lot of current, maybe because it is deeply discharged, maybe a cell(s) is bad, etc. |
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Post by fourwd1 on Nov 11, 2009 11:58:46 GMT -5
Another thing to check is cable connections, both pos and neg/grnd, both ends.
They could be loose or corroded.
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Post by fourwd1 on Nov 11, 2009 12:00:19 GMT -5
Oh, and the BATT/CHARGE light and the BRAKE light coming on at the same time indicates an alt problem (frequently the brushes).
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Post by fourwd1 on Nov 11, 2009 12:02:00 GMT -5
What is the voltage at the batt when the engine is running?
Should be close to 14V to charge the batt.
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Post by toyota86 on Dec 8, 2009 18:44:31 GMT -5
My voltage when it is running is closer to 17 to 18 volts. I think my voltage regulator is going out.
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Post by fourwd1 on Dec 8, 2009 21:07:29 GMT -5
Is that measured by the dash gauge or a real voltmeter? the dash gauges are inaccurate, mine reads around 17V too, but the real voltage (engine running) is around 14V. You need at least 13.8V to charge the batt.
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Post by blakegeee on Feb 22, 2010 10:07:56 GMT -5
Be sure to check the negative connection at the other end of the battery, where it mounts to the body and then probably down to the block. Make sure those connections are good. It would be worth getting a volt meter to give it a proper test. You certainly can not rely on the charging gauge.
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Post by whomadewho on Feb 22, 2010 13:04:57 GMT -5
The best place to start would be the battery. Have the battery load tested and check all the cells with a hydrometer. Make sure the battery is fully charged. The alternators function is to maintain the battery, not to recharge or bring back a weak battery. Take a test light and and make sure there is no drain at the battery. Another way is to remove the battery cable on the positive side and touch the cable against the post,if a arc occurs there is a drain somewhere. next check all of the battery connections. There should also be a separate ground cable going from the engine to the frame. Check for a loose or a glazed alternator belt. After doing this hook an amp meter up to the battery, with the headlights and everything else off - Start the engine, the alternator should be putting out between - 14.2 - 14.6 volts. - Turn the headlights ect on - Increase the RPM,to around 1200 - the voltage should stay around - 13.6 to 14.6 If your getting a high reading - 17 -to 18 volts - or a low reading below 13.4 volts this would indicate a bad alternator. When you check the battery for a drain, and if there is a current draw - The first thing I would suspect after making sure nothing else is drawing - radio ect ,ect would be the voltage regulator in the alternator. The best way to check this would be to carefully remove the cable off of the back side of the alternator,and recheck the battery for a drain. If the alternator appears bad, remove the alternator and have it bench tested, to make sure there isn't other issues going on. Just an opinion unless you have alot of extra cash, in that case i will sent you my address, rather then buying a new alternator, I would have the old one disassembled, and get an estimate on having it rebuilt. - GOOD LUCK
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Post by calgary4runner on Feb 28, 2010 20:01:00 GMT -5
I was having battery power issues for a couple years and about 3 batteries along the way. turned out i had a crack on my cable to the battery and it was touching metal causing it to continually drain power. I got a new cable and a brand new battery and everything has been fine since that.
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